
Class _Xla2.L- 
Book .C8 fe 

Copyright N" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



foreign flasbligbts 



H Collection of Xettera 

from JEurope 



# 



Copyrighted By 

Iv. M. CUTTING 

1907 



i LIBRARY of CON«a£SS, 
Two Copies RweiveC 
DEC 24 1 907 
Oopyiitti!. tiury 

OLASSA XXc. No, 

COPY B/ 



i) 



ft ^1 



n 

'^ 



26 



TO VIRGINIA LEWIS DALBEY, 



Whose magic wand created for me and my 
spouse, not only a carriage and prancing pair, 
but trains of cars, ocean liners, comfortable and 
beautiful hotels, art galleries and great Cathe- 
drals in which the best loved energies of the 
greatest artists and builders of all ages have 
been centered: 

This collection of notes is dedicated. 

MAY V. CUTTING. 



foreign f lasbligbts 



CHAPTER ONE 



OUTWARD BOUND 



May 15, 1907, Via Pennsylvania R. R.; Indi- 
ana, One Hour East of Terre Haute. 

Dear Papa: 

We have ridden into the sunshine, and the 
coach is warm; so there is no more shivering 
as there was this morning. Your apples look 
pretty on the window-sill, 

Mrs. Lewis has been reading Dickens' Christ- 
mas Carol to me. Virginia is engrossed in the 
Mettle of the Pasture. I have been looking out 
the windows at the green of the fields and trees. 
The boys (rather inappropriate for the man 
past his half century) are still grinning over 
their vacation. Leonard ate so slowly that his 
strawberry shortcake lasted until we were thro* 
our meal. We had soup (our choice of five 
3 



Foreign riasHll^Kts 



kinds j, white lish, roast beef, lamb chops, pota- 
toes (chipped, French fried or new creamed), 
asparagus, tomato salad, coffee and short cake, 
I hope we shall not eat much supper. 

The observation car is beautiful ! Great, easy 
willow, cushioned chairs, can be pushed about. 
A bookcase, with good books, is built on each 
side of the desk with its beautiful stationery. We 
have the free use of a stenographer and type- 
writer, and I would dictate to this red-liveried 
man if I had not been brought up never to dic- 
tate to anyone. 

The balcony must be delightful in hot weath- 
er, but I have my gloves on now to keep my 
arms warm. Lunch is called. I may add more 
later. You see eating is a big part of going to 
Europe. 

9 :15 p. m.— We are waiting for the beds to be 
made. AYe discovered when we entered the din- 
ing car, that we had eaten only a lunch at noon, 
and must eat dinner at night, so we did our 
4 



Outward Bound 



best; but it was almost a case of craming. We'll 
have more for the fishes- I hope we shall not 
eat much tomorrow. 

There are the cutest little electric lights that 
pop out from a secret spring in the lower berth. 
I shall go to bed now and read myself to sleep. 

Good night— and lots of love for each of you 
at home. The time will soon pass when we shall 
be home again loaded with memories. I am sure 
I forgot to tell Fannie goodbye, and she was so 
kind to help me off this morning. 

Hotel Aster, New York, Maij 17, 1907. 

My Dear Ones: 

That makes you individual, doesn't it? I 
spent a few hours in Philadelphia. It did my 
heart good to find dear old Uncle Frank so werl 
and I had the most delightful call at Cousin 
Mary's. She took me all over her grand house, 
and out over the garden with its old trees and 
winding paths, bordered with box and old-fash- 
5 



Foreigjn FlasKli^Kts 



ioned beds of flowers of every variety. She was 
so cordial and inquired very particularly about 
each one of ' ' thee. ' ' 

At 5:30 Leonard and Dwight met me at the 
23rd street dock, and we came to this beautiful 
hotel. It, in itself, is worthy of a long descrip- 
tive letter. We have an outside room with pri- 
vate bath— a pair of paper slippers is furnish- 
ed each day, and the sanitary wash-cloth is 
sealed at 212 degrees so the paper tells us. The 
as tor is the decoration of carpets, dishes, tumb- 
lers, wallpaper— everything. Even the ink-well 
from which I write is an astor. 

We ate our evening meal in the Louis XIV 
dining room with its beveled plate mirrors. Gren. 
Kuroki was being banqueted in the Wisteria 
room. The offices were swarming with the brown 
uniformed Japs. 

After an evening at the Hippodrome, where 
we saw a wild west show— lots of Indians, cow- 
boys—a regular circus with horse-back and bi- 
6 



Oxjit-ward Bound 



cycle riders, Arabian acrobats, trained seals and 
elephants. And then a play, Neptuns's Daugh- 
ters, who rise out of the water, blink the drops 
off of their eyelashes, and lure the young men 
who have been hired to entertain the summer 
boarders at this sea-side resort, into their brimy 
home. After all this we went through the ho- 
tel kitchen, where two hundred people are em- 
ployed to feed the six thousand daily guests. 
We saw quantities of beautiful bread and bak- 
ed apples just out of the ovens, dainty baskets 
of flowers made of candy, and a ship too— per- 
haps to compliment Gen. Kuroki. 

Two stories below ground, we went to see the 
immaculate machinery that lights and heats 
this great house. And down there we found 
another banqueting hall— a wine cellar furnish- 
ed with heavy dark tables and chairs, and en- 
closed at the far end with a replica of the great 
wine cask at Heidelberg. 



Foreig'n Flashli|^Kts 



May 19, 1907-Koing Albert 
We are one day east of New York. The 
watches are set up thirty minutes. Everyone 
is giad we are gaining time, for the meals come 
earlier. Breakfast at eight, bullion with ham 
and tongue sandwiches at eleven, a five course 
lunch at one, tea and lemonade with all kinds 
of cookies at four, a nine course dinner at seven, 
more lemonade and cookies before going to bed. 
I need not tell you the sea is calm. To be sure 
*'the ship steps up to meet you'' (quoted from 
D wight) ; but we are all good boarders. 

A remarkable thing is that Leonard, Dwight 
and I are the only passengers we know of, who 
have never been over before— many of them 
habitually— even as many as thiry-nine times. 
It is common for our fellow passengers to tell 
us they envy us our first impressions. And there 
is a certain joy in the newness of experiences. 
Our first surprise was the steamer letters. How 
precious those good wishes with their familiar 
8 



Outward Bound 



signatures were, when we were 'way out of 
sight of land. 

Virginia is practicing today, for the church 
services tomorrow. There is nothing that needs 
a doer but that she is the one to do it 



Mittwoch, den 22 Mai, 1907. 
I have copied the date from the picture pos- 
tal breakfast menu. We were wakened Sunday 
morning by a most impressive chorale played by 
the band. They also opened the church services 
with religious music. Dr. Johnson, of Balti- 
more, preached a beautiful sermon to a dining- 
room well filled with passengers. The singing 
was led by Mrs. Cummings ot Chicago. There 
are several talented people on board: Mr. Al- 
bert Kusner, a composer ; Mr. Bensinger, a por- 
trait painter; Mr. Palmer, a snow scene artist; 
Mr. Crane, a great ship builder. But the only 
passenger that really knows his worth is a tiny 
brown wooly dog who cost one thousand dollars. 
9 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



and has been taken aboard seventeen times. He 
wears his hair in a single braid between the 
ears, it and the ears are tied with long, pink 
ribbons. He always has the personal care of 
his foster-parents, which is an advantage over 
the children on board, who are all in the care 
of nurse maids. 

Monday night there was a dance on the star- 
board deck. The two sides were draped with 
the signal flags, and those of many nations ; and 
the ceiling was festooned with red, white and 
blue electric lights. The girls looked so pretty 
in their light dresses, and the music was so en- 
ergizing, that Leonard and I went to the deck 
below, where we w^ere alone, and there we— 
aged collectively ninety-one, took and gave our 
iirst dancing lesson- It was hard w^ork and I 
soon tired, so we went back to the ball-room and 
watched the others. How well the young Ger- 
man officers danced ! Always in perfect time to 
the music, but the Americans— some of them- 

TO 



Out-ward Bound 



just sawed wood or strolled at the most leisure- 
ly pace, with the arm rather nearer than is con- 
ventional in walking. 

We have such good orchestral music during 
our lunch and dinner, and a concert at ten 
o'clock in the morning. Between those times 
the musicians are making beds or waiting on the 
tables. I have been amused at each steward's 
admiration for his emperor expressed in his 
waxed mustache. No matter how thin the 
growth, it is carefully twirled up towards the 
eyes in true Wilhelm II style. 

Leonard and I made a tour of the ship this 
morning. We found the second cabin very 
clean and coii^'fortable— of course there is more 
motion aft than in the middle of the vessel ; but 
its dining-room is almost as beautiful in its 
walnut finish as ours is, in white and gold. The 
kitchens for both the first and second cabin pas- 
sengers seem equally tempting, and a steward 
aft was polishing the steel knives until they 
II 



Foreign FlasKlig^Hts 



shone— just as bright as ours. The Ospedale 
on the deck below was all that could be desir- 
ed in fresh air and well scrubbed floors and 
walls. There were only a few patients. If I 
had to travel steerage, I would hope to be a 
patient, that I might lie in one of those clean 
beds, and be cared for by the kind nurse. 
May 24:th. 

The post-card menu tells me what day it is 
en shore. This morning the picture was of Die 
Wartburg, which immediately suggested Martin 
Luther. 

As I lay awake in the early morning, I wish- 
ed I could describe the noises of the engine and 
creaking timbers as the ship rolled along. I went 
to the door and found some one polishing shoes 
—long before dawn. Then I remembered that 
when we went to bed at 11 :30, men were scrub- 
bing the passages. The working hours are 
surely very long. Everything is so immaculate. 
I have carried the same handkerchief for a 

12 



Oxit-ward Bound 



week— but it had tears of joy on it today. When 
we were at breakfaet, we saw— the Nekar! A 
gull, then four, tlien a dozen skirted out ship ! 
(There have been six days with no sign of life 
outside our own vessel!) They were scarcely 
gone when the cry of "Land! Land!" brought 
everyone to the railing. On the eastern hori- 
zon was a faint, cloudy outline. About noon, 
the engine stopped for its first rest— for we 
were really at the Azores. Gems of green set 
in the blue sea! The fields are like patch 
work sewed with hedges; and tlie houses are 
so white, nestling against the hillsides; and the 
cattle look so venturesome, grazing on their 
steep pasture— one advantage, they do not have 
to bend the neck much to reach the grass if 
they stand with their backs to the sea. 

A row^-boat floating the stars and stripes, and 
carrying Portugese sailors, three well dressed 
ladies (one of them w^as using a longnette) and 
a well shaven priest, brought us a can of cream 

13 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



and baskets of fish and flowers. They carried 
home with them dozens of magazines and a 
pouch of letters, which will be given to the first 
west bound steamer stopping there. 



Gihralter, May 2Sth. 
About three o'clock yesterday we landed on 
the pier here, and were received by great dele- 
gations of porters, fruit and post card venders 
and carriage drivers all determined to assist 
us. The conveyances are the quaintest little 
spider phaetons drawn by one horse. But the 
walk was short thro the city gate, (we were so 
glad to be putting our legs to use again) and 
up the narrow, crooked streets to the hotel. It 
is a queer adaptation of Moorish art in its mar- 
ble floors and tiled walls. The walls are nar- 
row with turns and a few steps up or down at 
the most unexpected places. As soon as we 
could find our way out of the queer halls, we 
were across the street, darting into the shops 
14 



Out-ward Bound 



one after another, perfectly bewildered with the 
laces and drawn work nailed outside the doors, 
and the embroidery and carved ivory in the 
shop windows. The Hindoo merchants are all 
persuasion, but are in business only for your 
sake, so will sell you anything for five dollars 
if you refuse to pay ten- Mrs. Lewis asked me 
to help her selct a Maltese lace collar— and it 
was for me! Wasn't she clever? I bought 
some embroidery from China and more from 
Japan, drawn linen from the Canary Islands, 
a black Mantilla from Spain, and a carved san- 
dal-wood fan— all in a little shop about twelve 
feet square. Shopping became such a mania 
that I bought two silk shawls after leaving land 
—threw the money and the merchant threw the 
shawls across the widening water. 

But speaking of Gibralter, we went to ride 

in the funny carriages this morning thro' the 

park where the flowers grow to look like giants 

of our home varieties. Indeed, they do every- 

15 



Toreign FlashligHts 



where. One entire house roof was covered with 
sweet peas, and another with geraniums. The 
houses are built of brick and covered with plas- 
ter. The governor's plain abode is patrolled 
every instant by three red coats; the other five 
thousand nine hundred ninety-seven are some 
of them patrolling the neutral ground. Mean- 
while, the black uniformed Spaniards pace their 
line with equal step (but the back bone is not 
so straight). Most of the English soldiers are 
perhaps at their barracks— beautiful gray stone, 
modern buildings— to the south of the peninsula 
where the cannon spread their mouths on every 
side to the open sea. That sounds very terri- 
ble, but in every crevice,, where a bit of earth 
may lodge on this mighty lion's rocky frame, 
are growing millions of yellow daisies— fear- 
less of all foes. And 'way up high from the 
top most point, the Marconi Mercury tells of 
incoming ghips by hanging golden balls aloft. 
But the gnarled olive tree interests me; and 
i6 



Oxjit^vard Bo\ind 



even more, the fezed or turbaned Moor. How 
does he keep on his heelless slippers ? How much 
width is there in his enormous trousers? Who 
made the beautiful bag that is slung over his 
shoulder? He is all courtesy. He said ''Good- 
night" to us last night when we were return- 
ing from our lark. We passed a restaurant 
where we read the signs ''Married people of 
the rank and file only are admitted" and an- 
other "Beer will be served in the skittle al- 
ley." We were not tempted to prove our "rank 
and file" or hunt the "skittle alley. After 
wondering where we would "rank" in English 
society, we appreciated the courtesy of the 
Moor's "Goodnight." 

AVhen we reached our room, our chamber- 
maid was waiting for us in the hall. She ask- 
ed to serve us, and when we assured her we 
wanted nothing, she left us with a courteous 
"Goodnight." 

Here we are landed on the other side of the 

17 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



Atlantic and I haven't written you a word 
about the sunshine in the ocean spray, the sun- 
sets that trailed after us a great flood of gold, 
the moon-light that multiplies its ' strength a 
million times in a broadening path on the ocean. 
How I have longed for language to clothe those 
most joyous sensations! 

Now% I think of it, I haven't told of the 
school of porpoises jumping over the waves, and 
the tiny flying fish that really look like birds 
as they skip four or five times, (as you skip a 
flat stone) and then disappear below. But I 
must mail this. The call is ''All aboard for 
Tangiers!" 



i8 



CHAPTER TWO 



TANGIERS 



T anglers, May 29th. 
A Moor in red silk embroidered coat and 
blouse (which name I shall give the garment 
covering the legs, for there must be at least 
two yards of blouse between the knees. If I 
were making one— or two, whichever may be 
the correct numeral— I should make a broad 
bag just the length from the waist below the 
bend of the knee. In each corner, I should cut 
a hole large enough for the foot and calf to 
pass thro'; then plait the top into a band fit- 
ting the waist. If I were rich, I would make 
it of a heavy soft silk; if not, of coffee sacking. 
This richly dressed Arab in fez and turban — 
the white cloth is wound around the bachelor's 
fez when he takes a wife— was the captain ot 
the steamer that brought us across the Straits 
of Gibralter and along the mountainous coast 
of Africa to Tangiers. We anchored a miie 
19 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



from shore, and then leaned over the railing; a 
half hour watching and listening to the high- 
keyed babel of the Arabs in the row-boats and 
the Arabs on the steamer, bargaining over the 
price of landing us. Such fun ! At last the ropo 
stairway was let down on the outside of the ship. 
The oarsmen of the boat to be loaded, hung tight 
to our stair platform, the baggage was carried 
dow^n and thrown in; we followed to the square 
platform, aimed well and jumped seaward with 
a sinking heart and a fluttering hope that it 
would sink into the boat instead of the ocean. 

Athree mile row— counting the ups and 
downs, over the crest and into the trough of 
each wave brought us to the pier— the only 
modern thing in Tangiers except our hotel. 

While on the pier, a merchant approached us, 
carrying on his back a bundle much like a good 
sized family's weekly wash. He threw it on 
the rough planked floor and untied the cor- 
ners. Then he shook before our eyes richly em- 



Tangiers 

broidered squares of cloth, finely wrought webs 
of drawn linen. He knew enough of our lan- 
ested, so he thought to tempt with a price of 
guage to say "$3000." But I was not inter- 
$15. This was for a marvelous bedspread show- 
ing months of careful toil. 

Leaving the merchant, we walked thro' the 
city gate where three white robed, wise looking 
custom officers sat cross-legged on a shelf out of 
the dirt, and ordered the best looking pieces of 
baggage opened for a merely formal inspec- 
tion. A further walk up the hill thro' narrow 
streets with many turns, stepping on the round- 
est of cobblestones and trying to avoid the mid- 
dle of the street which is slightly depressed and 
serves as the only sewerage system of the city; 
dodging droves of little burros, laden with sad- 
dle-baskets holding at least two bushels of char- 
coal, sand, brick, grain, barrels, ( three large 
ones or four small ones), driven by boys who 
yell "Ar— r— r— ah!" to urge the beasts on- 

21 



Foreign FlasUlis'Kts 



ward, and guide them to right or left by an in- 
flection of the voice; what seemed quite a walk, 
tho' it proved to be only two blocks, brought 
us to the hotel. 

Such a haven! Marble floors in black and 
white diamonds; and gliding over them, three 
silk-robed, slippered Arabs to serve us. Great 
high walls hung with hammered brass plaques, 
a balcony looking out over a bay as beautiful 
as the bay of Naples. Our rooms were over it. 
One of our party not knowing of the balcony, 
threw some water out of his window. A French 
gentleman and his lady were sitting below in 
the moonlight, probably "out-nighting" Lor- 
enzo and Jessica, when the water fell. We v. juld 
not understand the French language, but ges- 
ture and facial expression and color made th' 
man's thoughts clear. Apology seemed slow 
when only possible thro' an interpreter— but 
when the silver-tongued apology was empha- 
sized with frold, the Frenchman subsided. In- 

22 



Tan^iers 

ternational warfare had been imminent ! 

Virginia's room was on the street, just on a 
level with the roofs opposite. The people ot 
the house came out on the roof in the twilight. 
We bowed and smiled and waved at them. They 
stared and smiled and stared at us. They spent 
the night on the roof, and the street is so nar- 
row (one street is just the width of my arms 
akimbo), that Virginia really scarcely slept, 
fearing they would step thro' her window. 

Their houses do not have windows; they are 
built of brick, covered with plaster, which is 
white, or colored by rubbing on a pink or blue 
powder. 

The next morning at four o'clock the high 
pitched voices rose from the bay to our open 
window. By six, there was such a babel T 
could not sleep, so sat me down at the window 
to enjoy the activities that had begun two hours 
before. Several flat-boat loads of freight had 
come in during the night, as far as the shallow 
23 



Foreign FlasHlig^Kts 



beach would let them, and the business of un- 
loading was at its height. There were six men 
wading waist deep to a flat-boat of bricks. Each 
carried a basket full on his shoulders to the 
&hore and dumped them in a pile. Another 
fiat boat carried thirty-six steers. Each one of 
these was lifted by placing the end of a plank 
under the belly; then he was rolled down the 
inclined board into the water. He disappear- 
ed with a splash, came to the surface in a mo- 
ment, and swam ashore. 

One little boy, not more than ten, was driv- 
ing as many loaded burros with only his vioce 
to g*uide, and a stick to encourage them. This 
"Ar— r— r— r— ah!" called out by hundreds of 
drivers, is the commonest noise of the streets. 
It is accompanied by the tinkle of the brass 
cups carried by the water venders, who sell you 
a drink from a hair covered goat's skin. These 
men show their lack of ingenuity by holding 
the thumb over the mouth of the skin, instead 
24 



Tan^iers 

of using a cork from the trees "just over the 
way" in Spain. 

To us who use tons of coal, the fagot vender 
was a strange sight. Women carrying bundles 
of fagots as large as the arms could clasp, walk- 
ed in stooping posture, with the hands under 
the bundle on the back, fully eight miles from 
their country homes to the market. At evening, 
back they trudged, if they had made no sale, to 
return the next day— with better hope, I start- 
ed to say ; but hope is a stranger to those faces. 

In the market, too, was the scribe, painfully 
copying each character of the Koran. And with 
much more zeal was the story-teller— a single 
toothed, skinny man, whose eyes glared as he 
dramatically told the story of Mohammed; and 
regularly punctuated each exhaustive declara- 
tion with three beats on his real tortoise-shell 
timbuctoo. 

Then there was the snake charmer, who play- 
ed music to his sleek, wriggling companions. 
25 



Foreign FlasKlights 



Allowed them to bite his tongue, and with the 
poisonous blood that they drew, he lighted a 
fire by putting straw in his mouth; and the 
tlame and smoke that ascended to heaven saved 
his filthy body from the death that would come 
to unbelievers. 

But not all Arabs are filthy. The officers in 
the custom house and the dining-room in our 
hotel were exquiisitely groomed men. Their 
gold embroidered silk coats and blousy trousers, 
with the handsome sash wound around the waist, 
the leather embroidered great pocket that 
swings from the shoulder, the red fez or white 
rimmed turban, form a costume of good har- 
mony in color and outline. I was all in sym- 
pathy with Desdemona in her peculiar choice 
of a husband— but lo! when I came to Venice, 
our drapper little courier told us Othello was 
not a Moor— the romance was shattered! Yes, 
this same little fellow said Shylock never lived 
in Venice, and another waxed mustache told 

26 



Tangiers 

US the ball before the battle of Waterloo was a 
myth. So I shall believe as I prefer! But 1 
think one of the handsomest of these Moors 
would have made a fine lover for Desdemona. 
Of course, not the common kind! Not one of 
those making doughnuts with his fingers and 
frying them in an old churn that has the end 
knocked out, and a pan of greece fitted in, while 
a boy sticks fagots in at the bottom. Not even 
the man that was hammering the patterns of 
crescents into the brass trays. No ! nor the mail 
carriers who walk fifty miles every day, carry- 
ing thegreat basket pouches on their backs, from 
Tangiers to Fez— a distance of two hundred 
miles. Certainly not the beggars sitting against 
the walls in the narrow streets waiting to die. 
But one of those speeding his beautiful black 
steed on the sandy beach— every movement of 
the horse showing strength and beauty, every 
line of the white robed rider showing alertness 
and decision. 

27 



Foreign FlasKli^Kts 



We met these horsemen when returning from 
a long ride thro' the Riff village and out to 
an old Roman bridge. The Riff is the home of 
the very poor. The land is covered with prick- 
ly pears all in pink or yellow blossom. The 
thatched huts are in scattered groups in this 
most inpregnable enclosure. Even we, who 
were so comfortably seated on our Spanish sad- 
dles, scarcely avoided some prickles. The Span- 
ish saddle has a back and two sides and a foot 
rest. You sit facing the mule 's left side. There 
are no wheeled conveyances in Tangiers. 

So much more engrossing were all these scenes 
from real life than the so-called theatre to which 
our dragoman guided us with his lantern in the 
evening. In a small upstairs room, a dozen men 
sat on the floor, four of them playing cards, 
and the others singing, their eyes cast heaven- 
ward or entirely closed, accompanied by a 
single timbuctoo. Our dragoman joined the 
singers, seeming to be perfectly familiar with 
28 



Tangiers 

the Oriental melody. For there was melody— 
minor, in common time. The other singers, we 
had seen on Tlie streets or in the bazaars- The 
fee of admission was a peseta, or twenty cents, 
and entitled us to a cup of very sweet black 
coffee. There were only five in the audience, 
so these men cannot live by singing alone. 

But night scenes are veiled from the tourist 
in Tangiers, by the very essence of darkness. 
Even tho' the moon may transform the bay 
into a sheet of silver, she cannot bend her beams 
to illuminate those narrow, crooked passage 
ways. 



29 



CHAPTER THREE 



SPAIN 



May 30th,— Bound for Cadiz. 
We are aboard the Barcelona— a beautiful 
yacht built for the Queen Dowager of Spain. 
It is Moorish in style. The ceilings of carved 
cedar in star and hexagon design, inlaid with 
blue and gold enamel. Arabic letters in blue 
and gold border the stairway, and a tiling of the 
same colors forms a dado around the walls of 
the upper and lower cabin. There are three 
suites of rooms furnished in blue and tan and 
red, respectively; and a great marble tub is 
in the Queen's bathroom. It seems the Queen 
does not enjoy the sea, so this exquisite piece 
of workmanship is in the public service. 



Cadiz— Friday, 8:30 a. m. 
We go to ride in thirty minutes. If people 
are not too sociable, I'll have that much time 
«.vith you. It is pleasant to be in a party, but I 
30" 



>pair\ 

cannot always write when I want to. This is a 
very congenial party. People of means, but 
no flummery— just sensible as you and I are- 
Our conductor is so helpful— calls us in the 
morning, explains the money system, has good, 
airy rooms reserved for us at the best hotels, 
looks after all the baggage, interprets the lan- 
guage—we haven't a care. But you are saying 
"Hey, there! your time will be up and you 
haven't told us a thing." 

We are here at the holy season of Corpus 
Christi. The streets are festooned with flo-vrers 
and all the city is in gala attire. There was 
a bull fight yesterday in honor of the day. Two 
of our party went. But we preferred to sit 
in a palm shaded square and watch the peo- 
ple. There were a few ladies in modern dress 
and last year's hats— they turned up instead of 
down. There were ever so many exquisitely 
diessed children— as elaborate as the big dolls 
in Field's show window- all over lace, embroid 

31 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



cry or drawn work, not a simple dress among 
them. The nursemaids looked like ladies, but 
wore wide embroidered aprons. I have decided 
all Spainiards are beautiful. The bed rooms 
are full of mirrors so they must know how they 
look. 

I took care to notice one child's hat yester- 
day, so I could tell you about it. It was a broad, 
lacey affair, and had on it two large bunches 
of grapes, one purple and one white, two large 
red roses on long stems, and one white one, and 
the foilage of rose leaves. The child wearing it 
was not over five years old. All the little girls 
had black curls— no! I did see one whose hair 
was crimpy. (I saw a baby in arms with hair 
in curl papers.) 

This hotel is built like the Palace of San 
Francisco. There are great palms, a foot and 
a half in diameter, in the court- What puzzles 
is, did they build the house around the palms, 
or do the palms grow as fast as a castor-bean? 

3^2 



Spain 

We went to the cathedral this morning 
where Murillo's last painting:, the Adoration of 
St. Catherine, is over the altar. It was while 
painting this picture, that the artist fell from 
the scaffolding, and died two months later from 
the injury. 

Then we went to the bull ring where the floral 
decorations are not yet withered, or the blood 
stains in the arena yet dried from yesterday 'f^ 
slaughter. There were "only" five bulls and 
five horses killed yesterday. Usually there are 
six bulls and as many horses as possible. We 
went into the six pens and heard more than we 
wanted to about the fasting and tormenting. 
I wonder whether 'Hor" means bully-ing? 

The streets are clean— (women scrub the 
pavement) and ^ narrow only fifteen feet 
wide. Leonard stepped it. The houses are 
four or five stories high, with overhanging 
windows and graceful iron railings. As the 
houses line with the street, they, themselves, 
33 



foreign FlasKli^Kts 



shade the street every hour but midday. There 
are many open squares where seats are plenti- 
ful, and there is always the open court indoors, 
so the people spend many hours under the sky. 

Llany women on the street are wrapped in 
gaily embroidered crepe shawls and wear a 
flower in their hair. At church every woman 
wears her black dress and mantilla. 

Somebody 's sweetheart lives over the way. We 
passed the lover standing at her window as we 
left and as we returned to the hotel yesterday. 
He must have been there an hour. This morn- 
ing the lady-love was at an upstairs window, but 
he stood on the pavement delivering his mes- 
sage wdth as much ador as before. 

These narrow streets educate the horses to 
back v/ell. The first carriage to enter a block 
has the right of way, and any others must back 
out. The mule, and his kind, are used here as 
in Tangiers to carry everything. We saw one 
this morning that was apparently bedecked 
34 



Spain 

with flowers. Drawing nearer, we found him 
to be the vegetable carryall; and the skill with 
which the measures and scales were adjusted, 
and the harmony in colors of the fresh foods 
proved the vender to be a mechanical and ar- 
tistic genius. The cows and goats are driven 
from door to door and deliver their milk in 
person to the purchaser. 

The market has all kinds of supplies: laces, 
pottery, shoes, foods— all spread out on the 
ground. A merchant seems to have his entire 
stock within a four-foot square. 



Seville, May 31. 
Four hours' ride brought us from Cadiz. On 
each side of the track, for miles out of Cadiz, 
the ground is covered with trenches. In the far 
distance we saw what we supposed to be the 
white tents of a soldiers' camp; but when we 
approached we found them to be pyramids of 
salt. Men were chopping out pieces with axes. 
35 



Foreig'n FlasKlisKts 



The trenches were for evaporating the sea water. 

The higher ground, for miles and miles, is in 
olive orchards. Frequently we passed bare 
fields where funnel shaped piles of red earth, 
like chocolate ice-cream, formed rows in every 
direction. Those w^e learned, covered the stumps 
of olive trees; this care renews their fruitfull- 
ress. 

For railroad fences, the long leafed cactus is 
planted. At every wagon-road crossing, a wo- 
man was holding a chain across the road as 
we passed. We soon came to her humble dwell- 
ing, and there was always a washing hung on 
her cactus fence. 

Leonard and I were in the compartment with 
three— I was going to say foreigners, but we 
were the foreigners— a Spanish gentleman, and 
the French minister to Tangiers and his wife. 
I remembered the Frenchman's face— I had 
seen him riding a beautiful dappled gray horse 
in Tangiers, and my mule driver told me who 
36 



Spain 

he was. At the first station, he bougth a bag 
of boiled shrimps, and urged ns to partake— 
the motion explaining the language. We did; 
but what could we land-lubbers do with those 
shelled fishes with heads and tails defying all 
ingress! Our host laughed at our dilemma and 
showed us how to remove the delicate armor and 
find the luscious morsel. 

When the train stops, a counter on wheels, 
passes the car windows. From it you may buy 
fruits and drinks. Yes, morel Even live 
chickens ! From another, a cart that looks like 
a clothes-horse on wheels, you may rent a pil- 
low. There are no porters or peddlers as on 
our trains. 

At every station a company of gentlemen and 
ladies were waiting to greet our French fellow 
traveler and his mfe, and bid them "God 
Speed." Many other passengers stepped out 
to walk about during the five minutes stop. Then 
the bell rang, or a horn blew, passengers took 
37 



Foreig'n Flaslili^Kts 



their seats, guards fastened the doors, and we 
were off— without any whistle or sizzle. 

Soon the Spaniard, with eyes dancing, point- 
ed out the window shouting "Torros, torros!" 
True, we were passing a field where a great 
herd of long, sharp horned black bulls were 
grazing. We smiled and nodded "I under- 
stand." But we wanted to give him a thunder- 
ing oration on that cruel pastime of his nation. 

This hotel is so beautiful. It is built around 
three gardens of palms and vines and playing 
fountains. The floors and stairs are of marble 
—so cool and clean. But, oh ! it is such a laby- 
rinth, and no one but the hall porter in the of- 
fice can understand English and direct you to 
your room, which is always on the other side 
of some other court. 

Before breakfast we were out for a walk, down 
the street of the Serpent, passing men's clubs 
and beautiful homes. One that was most at- 
tractive was the house of a bull-fighter's wid- 
38 



Spain 

ow. He had been a reckless man, and was hurt 
many times, and at last killed by liis would-be 
victim. The heads of all the bulls that had 
injured him, were mounted and hung on the 
walls of the entrance, all around the court 
(where they seemed inharmonious with the rest- 
ful freshness of trees and flowers and playing 
fountain), and, more appropriately, in the 
stables where the sleek horses stood at their 
stalls. We found the town hall where hangs 
an immense painting of the Emperor of Moroc- 
co handing the keys to O'Donnell, an Irish 
leader of Spanish troops, who captured Tetuan 
about a hundred years ago. 

After breakfasct, the Pillars of Hercules, 
where thirty-four thousand people were burned 
during the Inquisition, better prepared us to 
"see the twenty unfortunate horses standing in 
the bull-ring, waiting for tomorrow's gory death. 
Not even the auctioning of their hot flesh to 
the hungry poor, as is done with the muraer- 
39 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



od bull, can excuse the horse's torture. A sur- 
gical room finished in white tiled walls and 
ceiling, and equiped with shining instruments, 
awaits the use of an injured matedor; and an 
exquisite chapel is next it, where he may re- 
ceive the last sacrament. 

The walls of this city were built of mud by 
the Moors about 900. Ten centuries, instead of 
wasting them away, have only made them more 
enduring, for now they seem to be one solid 
rock. One of the street sights is a tiny burro, 
pulling a wagon loaded to the verge of tippling 
with cork. The trees are native here. The cork 
is their bark and is shed every seven years. 
Man aids by cutting the bark down opposite 
sides and around the top and bottom of the 
trunk and the large branches. An old tree is 
a very gnarly sight for the "joints" are so 
large. The railroad tracks are bordered with 
piles of cork bark as we see lumber piled in our 
country. But when I saw these burros hauling 
40 



Spain 

their loads along the banks of the Guadalquiver, 
I wished they would jump in, and let the cork 
carry them. Great loads of yellow straw look- 
ed like enormous turtles walking along the 
country roads. They, too, had two pairs of 
legs that certainly belonged to a burro, just 
visible underneath. 

But back to Seville : The Alcazaris, the won- 
derful Moorish masterpiece of this city. It was 
used by Charles V. and has his coat of arms 
in many rooms. But he did not mar the Arabic 
writing repeated millions of times around the 
doors and windows "There is no other conquer- 
or but God." The children's nursery, too, ia 
just as the Sultan's children played there, with 
the playing of the fountain to make music for 
them. But the garden is the most beautiful 
with its palms and orange trees. One orange 
tree bearing fresh green leaves, was planted by 
Peter, the Cruel, six hundred years ago. 

The House of Pilate is interesting if it is a 
41 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



replica of Pilate's house, as the Duke of Me- 
dina, its builder, claimed for it- It is used, 
now, for a dormitory during Holy Week, when 
the city is full of pilgrims. Speaking of Holy 
Week, reminds me of the celebration here at 
Corpus Christi. In this city only, on all the 
earth, a sacred dance is a part of the worship, 
three times during the year. Little boys in 
Philip III. costume, of white and red, with 
plumes hanging from their hats, play castanets 
and sing while they step with the orchestral 
music as if dancing a minuet. All this was 
within the iron railing that encloses the altar 
and organ, which occupies the middle of the 
cathedral. The archbishop and forty priests 
conducted the service which preceded the dance. 
The congregation knelt. A long sermon follow- 
ed, and was listened to attentively by the men 
standing erect, and the women, in black dresh, 
and mantilla, sitting on the bare marble floor, 
or on chairs they had carried with them; for 

43 



Spain 

there are no pews in the churches. Murillo's 
St. Anthony is the gem among the paintings of 
this magnificent structure, for the church is an 
architectual masterpiece. Adjoining the cathe- 
dral is a square pile of stone towering three hun- 
dred feet above the city. It was built by the 
Moors for the priest's call to prayer. The Span- 
iards have added enough structure to support 
twenty-five bells which blend so sweetly that 
they did not seem loud even when we were in the 
height of the tower. The ascent is made by an 
inclined plane which folloAvs the four sides of 
the tower. It really is an easy climb, and your 
shoes do not grow too short when you are com- 
ing down. 

A few steps bring you to the Murillo mus- 
eum- One long room is devoted to his paintings. 
The best known are the Concepcion and the 
Madonna of the Napkin. There are some queer 
paintings on boards in another room. One of 
Christ rescuing souls from Purgatory, which 

43 



Foreign FlashligHts 



is symbolized by a tiger's mouth. It is a night- 
mare ! Then there is a collection of Roman 
sculptures unearthed in Italica only a few years 
ago, A Diana of the Hunt has only the hands 
missing. There are relics of the Visigoths here, 
too. This is an old world! Yesterday, when I 
saw the tomb of Columbus in the cathedral, 
borne by the four women (they represent Cas- 
"What an infant I am." Today, I see these 
Roman carvings and think "What an infant 
tile, Arragon, Leon and Navarre), I thought 
Columbus was!" 

Sunday night, 11 p. m.— We have just been 
for a walk on the plaza, where all the people 
are out having a good time. The water carrier 
is busy selling drinks from the bag on his neck. 
News boys (of sixty surely) are crying extras 
that tell of the bull fight in Madrid. But best 
of all, the little girls are dancing such a pretty 
game, something like King William. Each one 
has a pair of castanets which she knows how to 

44 



Spain 

use, and she swings her feet and tosses her head 
with the most easy grace while she joins all the 
others in sonor. 






45 



CHAPTER FOUR 



THE MOSQUE AND ALHAMBR.A 



Cordova, June 4, 1907. 

I am sitting in the writing room of the Suis- 
se hotel looking out upon a court of flowers. 
The gardener has just called me to hand me 
a pink rose which I have put in my hair. The 
air is cool and balmy, but there is one draw- 
back to perfect harmony— that is a blind-fold- 
ed mule hitched to a pole and made to tramp 
round and round all day long to pump watev 
to supply this hotel. We saw several such con- 
trivances (well, man and mule) near Seville for 
irrigating the gardens. It seems hard on ihe 
poor blinded beast. 

The four hour ride from Seville here yester- 
day passed less wearily than in our humid cli- 
aiate. It was hot, but so dry we did not notice 
it much, and were diverted part of the way by 
46 



TKe Mosqxje and A-lKambra 



a Spaniard who thrust himself into our com- 
partmeut as we pulled out of the station. As 
we could not understand him, he showed Leon- 
ard a newspaper, pointing to the words, "Bandi- 
to Murderetto." Leonard met him again in the 
evening and learned thro' an intreperter that 
a bandit, who had defied the authorities for two 
years, had just been captured and murdered. 
Our fellow traveler was rejoicing with the na- 
tion. 

As soon as we reached the hotel, we rushed 
for a drink out of the earthern bottles that 
stand about everywhere. What was our sur- 
prise to find the water so cool ! It was the first 
cool drink without ice since leaving America. 
The vessel is so porous that the soup plate plac- 
ed beneath is full of water. 

I realize that the newness is wearing off- I 

did not jump out of bed every few minutes 

when I heard passers all night, to see how they 

looked ; whether the burro was carrying a house 

47 



Foreign FlasHlig'Kts 



or a brickyard; whether he was driven with a 
bridle, or by pulling an ear to guide, or pull- 
ing the tail to stop the beast as they do in Tan- 
giers— and throughout Spain as far as we have 
seen. When I heard a bell and the clatter of 
little feet this morning, I knew it was a herd 
of goats being driven to the consumers' homes 
to be milked. When we went to walk after 
nine last night, we passed a drove of Nannies 
delivering their milk in person. 

2 p. m.— It is delightfully cool here in the 
writing room and blistering hot in the sun. 
Dwdght thinks the foot Avashing custom among 
orientals is most sensible— nothing else could 
make one so comfortable. There is a foun- 
tain—or more than one— outside these old 
mosques, where the Mohammedans bathed be- 
fore entering to worship. The mosque here was 
built in the seventh century— a marvel of 
beauty— eighteen thousand pillars support 
double arches. The pillars were brought here 
48 



TKe Mosqvie and AlKambra 



by the Arabs from the Byzantine empire. They 
differ in detail— it is said there are no two 
alike— but have the same effect as you look 
to the front, to the right, to the left, and so 
on. The capitals are similar to the Corinthian. 
The arches are of red and white stone, the ceil- 
ing is carved and inlaid cedar. There is beau- 
tiful lacey carving in alabaster around \the 
doorways, and exquisite mosaics with every pos- 
sible pattern are used. The architects cam? 
from Egypt and Persia. One circular domed 
chapel is still intact We noticed the worn 
path in the marble floor made by the bare foot- 
ed worshippers as they circled the room read- 
ing the inscription on the wall, "There is but 
one God and Mohammed is his phophet." The 
mosaic work here, wherever the original 
has been revealed, is the finest of any public 
building. Our courier held a candle on a long 
pole so we could see the coloring and workman- 
ship. Surely they were a rarely gifted people. 

49 



Foreign Flashlights 



When the Mohammedans lost power and the 
Christians over-ruled the land, it was sad for 
Moorish art. The Catholics built a cathedral 
in the midst of the great expanse, spoiling tiie" 
symmetry made by the continuous columns. 
This cathedral seems out of place. The choir 
i;i very rarely beautiful of itself; carvings in 
high relief from the life of Christ and the old 
testament are on each seat. The treasury has 
jeweled chalices and crosses in many designs to 
be used in service. So rich are these jewels 
that they were stolen in war time, but have 
since been replaced. There were many black 
slabs of marble marking the burial places of the 
judges of the inquisition. I trust the color was 
selected to signify condemnation. 

We walked from the mosque out on an old 
Koman bridge over the Guadalquiver, built in 
thirty-seven B. C. and still in good condition. 
The Arabs built a fort on the far end of the 
bridge. 

50 



TKe Mosque and ALlKambra 



Keturning to the liotel, we passed a large 
stone building whose only visible entrance was 
an opening a foot square on a level with the 
pavement. A bell rope was there to call the 
porter. Those who enter there are the babies 
who have no other home awaiting them. With- 
in are the good sisters of charity who devote 
their lives to these inocent weelings. 




51 



CHAPTER FIVE 



THE ALHAMBR.A 



Granada, June 6, 1907. 
A day spent on the ears, leaving Cordova at 
six— a two hours' wait at Bobbadilla, and we 
arrived here at four-thirty. The ride w^as thro' 
beautiful country. Still the olive groves, 
fields of grain, and the snow topped Sierra Ne- 
va das in sight the last few hours of the way. 
The drive from the station to the Washington 
Irving hotel thro' a dense elm forest, six hun- 
dred feet above the town, was the most restful 
experience, after spending ten days in a white, 
treeless country. This forest is said to have 
been planted by the Duke of Wellington. He 
aided the Spaniards and was given miles and 
miles of territory in this region In return. These 
trees are only a few feet apart and tower high 
up the mountain side before the branches in- 
terlace, forming a bower everywhere. They are 

52 



THe AlKaxnbra 



hung with red and yellow (Spanish colors) elec- 
tric light globes at night. The cascade falling 
down the mountain side glitters over the color- 
ed lights. It is truly like fairyland, 
floor of vines- The rooms below open upon a 

The Washington Irving is a quaint hotel. 
Theire are no door-knobs, but old-fashioned 
latches. The door hinges are metal caps like 
those used to put out a candle. They swing 
upon a bent metal pin that is fastened to the 
door-jamb. Our window looks out upon a level 
garden Avhere fountains play. We cross the 
street three times a day to sit at a long table 
spread under one of the many bowers, made 
by the Duke of Wellington's elms. 

We walked to the Alhambra, or red palace, 
tliis morning. This was the summer palace of 
the Sultan, and is a series of pilliared courts 
and exquisite lacey wall decorations, with foun- 
tains or baths in every room— always running 
v/ater. At the entrance, the gate of justice has 
53 



Foreign FlasKli^Kts 



the open palm outlined on the keystone to 
symbolize fair dealings. In the court of myr- 
tles, gold fish were swimming in the big open 
square of water. The mosaic tiling and inlaid 
ceiling of pearl and cut Steele show wonderful 
designs, and skill in carrying them out. Here, 
as everywhere, the Catholic kings have left their 
mark— plastering over the w^^k of the Moors 
because they were infidels. The paintings or- 
dered by Ferdinand and IsaDeila and the bou- 
doir for her, are graceless in comparison with 
the work of the Moors. 

It is an interesting fact, that, where the 
Oatherdals stand, the mosques stood before 
them., and the Roman temples dedicated to pa- 
gan gods stood first. The ground evidently is 
set apart as a place of worship. 

We stood on the spot where Ferdinand and 
Isabella received Columbus after his first voy- 
age—for the Alhambra was captured January 
"J, 1492, and used by the Spanish for a royal' 

54 



TKe AlKaixibra 



palace after that time. And until this day, on 
the 2nd of January, the people worship before 
an altar erected at that time, and the maidens 
ring a bell all day long and dance on the watch 
tower so they may marry within the year. This 
watch tower gives a sweeping view of the sur- 
rounding country. It is fully fifty feet square, 
and, in Moorish times, a fire was built on it to 
signal to friends when the foe molested. The 
towers of the Infantas and the Sultana are 
beautiful prisons indeed, and so high yoa 
would think escape impossible, but it wasn't. 
(Read Washington Irving 's "Alhambra.") 

The same exquisite carvings and Moorish 
arches are in the Generaliffe. And the grounds 
are a work of art— terrace upon terrace A^th 
every design in well trimmed box, and quanti- 
ties of running water and pools of gold fish. 
We climbed to the tower ; it made the Alhambra 
Avatch tow^er look low; and when we reached it, 
we saw way above us, the ruin of another tow- 
55 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



er built for protection from the common enemy 
—man. How they ever ascended such steeps 
\vith stone and mortar! But the view! It was 
5>o beautiful looking over the valley, and across 
to the snow covered Sierras! 

Coming home we met a funeral procession. 
Four boys were carrying a baby a year old in 
an open pine box. The child was imbedecl 
and bedecked with flowers and crowned with 
an artificial wreath of orange blossoms. The 
box swung on two long towels. Eight men fol- 
lowed in the procession. There were no women. 

Of another period in history is the Cartuja 
Convent which contains horrible pictures rep- 
resenting the torture of the Catholics in Eng- 
lo'nd during the reign of Henry VIII and Anne 
Boleyn. A wonderful echo is heard in the Re- 
fectory, and a painting there of a cross is so 
realistic that birds are said to fly in the window- 
to light on the nails painted in it. The Sacristy 
in this building is very beautiful. The walls 
56 



The AlKambra 



are of Sierra marble as exquisite as fine mosaic 
in white, chocolate and touches of blue. The 
doors of this room are ebony inlaid with moth- 
er-of-pearl and ivory. The floor is inlaid mar- 
ble. One lone monk occupies the building now 
since the order has been supressed, and with it, 
the secret of making the famous Chartreuse 
wines. Beggars swarmed around the door and 
followed our carriage. 

We passed the gypsy quarters— veritable 
dwellings in the sides of the mount aiin. But the 
caves were dug out by the Moors centuries ago, 
when this was a flourishing city of five hundred 
thousand, before its surrender to Ferdinand and 
Isabella. The gypsies ran by the carriage beg- 
ging us to buy trinkets of polished brass. At 
last the guards, who had walked beside us 
throughout the gypsy region, drove them off. 

The police system in Spain is thorough. We 
noticed police armed with revolver and sword 
patrolling the plaza during the band concert 

57 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



at Cordova. From two to six armed soldiers 
of at least eight years service ride on every 
train to guard the passengers. This beautiful, 
fairy-like park is studded with white coekaded, 
mounted guards and myriads of foot soldiers; 
and on our drive the soldiers walked several 
miles by our side. 

We shall be sorry to leave the Alhambra. 
Spain seems very near to us when we think how 
Christopher Columbus discovered us, and Wash- 
ii-igton Irving discovered its greatest treasure. 
The Alhambra covers 2678 by 730 feet of ground 
and the walls are about six feet thick and thir- 
ty feet high. The elevation is 2600 feet above 
the sea. I can not conceive a height where 
more restful, beautiful views abound. Tomor- 
row morning when we are rising at five o'clock 
t'> make an early train, the Alhambra bell will 
ring, as it does every morning, to tell all the 
people that the irrigating trenches are open 
to freshen the land. This water system is an- 
58 



THc AlKambra 



other of the wonderful works of the Moors. The 
water here is so pure and there are many great 
wells— even on the highest elevation. On the 
Catholic birthday here— January second—one 
oi' the celebrations is to clean out the enormous 
cistern of the Alhambra, one hundred and lifty 
feet across. This cistern too, was built by the 
Moors. 

From Granada to Ronda was a cool ride in a 
saloon car, which made it possible for our en- 
tire party of fifteen to be together. The car 
is divided into two connecting rooms with seats 
around the walls, and a long table down the 
middle of each. You look out of the window 
opposite you, and hold on to the table to keep 
from sliding off the seat, which is too high for 
any but the longest limbed to reach the floor. 
In the corridor cars, where compartments are 
reserved for senoras, a man is fined two pesetas 
if he is found in such a compartment, even tho' 

59 



Foreign FlasHli^Kts 



he is talking to his own wife. A guard walks 
on the outside ot the car. 

Ronda was the victim of an earthquake in 
some remote past, and the scar — a chasm three 
hundred fifty feet deep— is a vivid reminder of 
it. But the Romans bridged it over, and the 
citizens accept all past history without a quiv- 
er of appreciation— to judge from their count- 
enances- Why, I, myself bargained for some 
lace at the market, which is a mere place on 
the ground, under the shade of some wall— I 
say, I bought this lace quite forgetting the 
earthquake and the Romans. 

An old coleseum, all built of stone, is no long- 
er useful in that capacity, but is considered a 
very good bull-ring. The mosque has been ap- 
propriated, too, and added to, and is now a 
cathedral. Thus do three words, coleseum, 
mosque, bull-ring embody the political history 
of that now almost unknown city. 

Like nil Spain, this obscure town is awake 
60 



THe ^IKambra 



to the possible needs of the king. A company 
of about five hundred soldiers passed to mar- 
tial music, on their way to mass. We followed. 
It was a sight to see so large a body of 
men kneeling in worship, and standing in at- 
tention to the sermon. A common sight here 
is the women scrubbing. They kneel in a box 
that has two side removed. We have not been 
in a cobwebby or dusty spot in all these pal- 
aces. The floors and stairs are scrubbed every 
day and ''every day" includes Sunday. As we 
walked thro' the streets we saw every kind of 
work of the day before— Avomen scrubbing the 
pavements at the entrance to the court of the 
house, or frying doughnuts on the streets, or 
selling vegetables and laces. Men were sawing 
boards and sewing harness. And in the fields 
were the harvesters— as many as forty in a 
group, using the hand sickle to gather the grain. 
They leave their homes in the villages and 
camp in the fields (for there are few farm 
61 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



houses) until the task is finished. Their pay 
is twenty-five cents a day, and they board 
themselves. 

The region between Ronda and Algeciras is 
one of the most beautiful! Much of the way, 
our train hugged the mountain side follow- 
ing the course of the Guadiara river. Its 
banks were bordered with small palms and lux- 
urant oleanders in full bloom- There wt .^ a 
few thatched huts scattered miles apart and 
seeming to hide in friendly curves of the hill- 
side. 

We went from Algeciras to Gibralter across 
the five-mile stretch of water in a little steam- 
er. It seemed good to see the old rock again. 
The streets have grown wider and the cooking 
is better than it was two weeks ago. 



SOUTHERN ITALY 

Prinzess Irene.— North German Lloyd. 
We stood and watched the old rock as we 
62 



TKe A.lKambra 



steamed away, and recalled the sensations of 
entering the fort, seeing the picturesque Moors 
and the patient back-laden burros for the first 
time, and the beautiful drives everywhere. As we 
came into the Mediterranean, the familiar pic- 
ture of the rock presented itself. The real 
British lion! 

On Tuesday night, the promenade deck was 
a picture of colored lights and flags of all na- 
tions, and pretty girls in prettier dresses, and 
the band played and we whirled to the music. 
Leonard was not afraid to dance in the glare 
of the improvised ball-room— instead of on the 
dark deck below as we did on the Konig Albert. 
Last night at dinner a concert was announced 
for the Sailors* widows and orphans to be giv- 
en at 9 o'clock. It was very impromptu, but 
the talent of the passengers filled two hours 
with most excellent productions. Miss Marie 
Bissell of New York sang several numbers ; Mrs. 
Dampman of Reading, Pa. gave a part of a very 

63 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



fine lecture on Rome. It was most instructive 
and the language as beautiful as grand music. 
A lady read a poem "Drifting, My Soul To- 
lifting program, the Chairman, Madam Cap- 
day is Far Away," etc. To close this most up- 
piani of New York, a woman of most unique 
and commanding presence, told us of a trip in 
a balloon way above the tree tops in Milan. She 
weighs two hundred pounds and has a heavy 
voice added to that, but in spite of it all, this 
basket into which she accidently stepped, lifted 
her— or in her own words, ''the earth went 
down from her." It was very graphic and her 
audience were shouting with laughter at her tale 
of distress, as she, in mimicry, held to the ropes 
and careened in the wind which blew her about. 
The collection was over $100.00. 

If I could keep time to the music with my 

pen, you would receive a good marching letter, 

for this is the hour of the morning concert. 

The bugler on this steamer plays a very sweet 

64 



SoutKern Italy- 



melody to call us to our meals. On the Konig 
Albert it was the usual trumpet call om^. 

We are crossing the southern shore of Sar- 
dinia—have been since early this morning. It 
is a big island in the Mediterrean, if not on the 
map. The southern shores are not cultivatea, 
but look rocky and barren. 



Naples— Hotel De Loudres, June 14, 1907. 

If I were to tell all about the Captain's din- 
ner last night, it would fill many pages— so 
you must picture the flags, bonbons, tiny boats 
with sailors on them, coat of arms of diiierent 
nations. Then think of the guests in their 
very best clothes bedecked with caps and flags 
of every variety, and after the feast, the dark- 
ened room and parade witli the illuinated ice 
cream— the clapping and laughing and play- 
fullness as of little children among the guests. 
After it, another dance filled the last night on 
board. 

65 



Foreig'n FlasKlig'Kts 



This morning, we were on deck at four o 'clock 
to see the Bay of Naples as we entered it. Ve- 
suvius is not the perfect cone of the familiar 
pictures. That is explained by the loss of eight 
hundred feet which fell into the crater in April 
of 1906; when there was an eruption that kill- 
ed five hundred people. 

There was a long wait in embarking, but 
everything was interesting— not least of which 
was the lifting the trunks from the steamer— 
eleven at a time— and swinging them into fiat 
boats. Three steamers came in this morning. 
There was truly an invasion of Americans. Af- 
ter dodging trunks on men's shoulders with 
our heads, and empty trucks with our feet, and 
buying a cameo of a station boy; we were tak- 
en in carriages to the museum. We kept our 
eyes open— reading every sign and translating 
by the aid of the window display, studying 
faces and costumes. The most unique thing 
is the ornament on the harness of the horses. 

66 



SoutHern Italy 



A silver or nickle harp, cupid, horse, dog, goat, 
or any other design, sometimes a foot high, is 
fastened to the saddle of the back band. When 
it rains— as it did this morning— the driver 
takes off his coat to protect his harness, and 
he, himself, gets wet. The commonest vehicle 
is a fiat cart from six to fifteen feet long bal- 
anced on two wheels eight feet in diameter. 
The load is balanced to a nicety to keep from 
lifting the dwarfed mule off the ground. Oxen 
and small horses are hitched together to some 
carts. One horn of the ox is sawed off to keep 
from stabbing the horse. 

The museum contains collections from Rome, 
Pompeii and Herculaneun, which had been 
buried for hundreds , almost thousands of years. 
The frescoes, mosaics, pottery, bronze lamps, 
horse-shoes, fish hooks, braziers, and statues 
from Pompeii better prepared us for the visit 
to that city in the afternoon. But nothing ex- 
cept a walk through the streets, could take 

67 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



US back those eighteen centuries to the city 
of chariots and drinking fountains whose story 
is told in stones worn by wheel and hand and 
lip. The Pompeian red has not lost its rich- 
ness in all these years. The frescoes delight 
the eye in form and color. The designs in 
themselves tell the story of a playful people in 
their dancing nymphs. Many activities are read 
in these beautiful wall decorations— racing, 
gathering grapes, compounding chemicals, weav- 
ing cloth, sacrificing the bull to Apollo, etc. 
The mosaic floors are as exquisite in design and 
in as good preservation as if they had been 
made only yesterday. The dog in the ves- 
tibule of the tragic poet is really startling to 
come upon, so real is he- There he is chained in 
black and white mosaic, but he looks as if he 
would like to chew you up. In the museum 
are the casts that have been made by pouring 
plaster into the ashen sepulchre of the bodies. 
A dog in writhing agony seemed more awful 
68 



SoutKern Italy 



than the people. 

We went to the Arcade this evening. It is 

four blocks of store buildings arched over and 

paved like a great mansion. Our bedroom floor 

here is of hexagonal tile without rugs except 

by the beds. This too, is a beautiful hotel. A 

notice in four languages invites guests to make 

suggestions to the managers whereby they may 

mprove in any way in the service, or in pleas- 

ng the guests. I might tell them the elevator 

s small, but I shan^t. 



Mt. Vesuvius.— June 15, 1907. 
We had a most interesting six mile drive 
thro' the old town of Naples (105l B. C.) to the 
train that carried us up the mountain. The 
people live in the streets. They were boiling 
potatoes, frying doughnuts, rolling chocolate, 
hanging out washing along the walls of the 
houses, and across the pavement, and combing 

69 



Toreig'n riasHlig'Kts 



their hair. Many, many were inspecting scalps. 
And as we drove thro' all this, we could often 
peep thro' a vestibule to a beautiful court of 
flowers and palms which are in the homes 
of the rich, while the rooms on the outside of 
the house— on the street, are used by the much 
less favored. 

The ascent up Vesuvius is made by cog rail- 
way. On either, and sometimes both sides ot 
the track is the mud thrown out last year. For 
eleven days the mud poured out of the crater, 
partially burying a village. The valley down 
which it flowed has been walled across with 
twenty-five or thirty high stone embankments, 
to keep the mud from being washed down upon 
the village below with every rain. The soil is 
very fertile and not a weed did we see, but 
acres and acres of gardens where figs, grapes 
corn, beans, potatoes, tomatoes were planted with 
such precision and economy of space, that the 
black soil is scarcely visible. We lunched upon 



70 



SovitKern Italy 



the mountain at the upper terminal of the rail- 
way above the clouds, and had the most lusc- 
ious fresh oranges served on the branches, and 
black cherries three inches in diameter. I 
brought home the cherry pits. Mr. Lewis asked 
me how we could raise them in our climate. I 
told him Leonard had some of the lava in his 
pocket, and I would take the sunshine in my 
heart, so we hoped they would grow. 



Rome.— June 16, 1907. 

At midnight, last night, we were walking 
across a broad, well paved, and brilliantly 
lighted street from the station to our hotel. 1 
thought to myself "How like going across 
Michigan avenue from the Illinois Central to 
the Auditorium." 

A smiling little maid in black dress, white 
cap and apron stood in our hall to show us the 
room. It was well prepared with fresh drink- 

71 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



ing water, hot and cold water for bathing, and 
three kinds of bowls (two wash bowls, two foot 
tubs, and two sitz tubs) to bathe in. A variety 
of stationery, new pens and a cleaned, filled 
ink well were upon a beautiful table of inlaid 
woods. All the English the maid knew was, 
"Is there anything you want?" and "Good- 
night." Our bed was worthy of the Caesars, 
it was so roomy and elegant. Carved mahog- 
any, with pineapples for the posts, and Dona- 
tello (as to ears) grinning from the foot- 
board- It takes an athlete to jump into any 
of these beds, they are so high- A brown tile 
stove with an open front and real iron dogs 
^^'as ready for a little fire. 

We went to St. Peter's to mass this morning. 
It was well to go there when we could stroll 
and study the architecture, sculpture and 
paintings for it is so immense— covers two 
hundred forty thousand square feet. The 
mosaic of a quill pen in the hand of St. Luke 

72. 



SoMtHern Italy 



is seven feet long, but every detail is so well 
proportioned it looks only seven inches. The 
paintings are mosaics, we learned in the lec- 
ture. Dr. Russell Forbes gave us four lectures. 
He reminds me of Uncle Frank in appearance 
He is the best living authority on Roman 
history. The first morning we walked around 
and over the Palatine Hill, Rome's birthplace, 
and he told us of every inch of ground— and 
perhaps each had layers of history three tiers 
deep, one emporer built on top of another so 
often. 

Delicate ferns grow in the house of Nero's 
grandmother, wherever a globule of earth finds 
a lodging. The walls are still beautiful with 
frescoes of winged victories, and festoons of 
fruit. A panel shows Juno and Argus watching 
the disdainful lo and the clever Mercury who 
is bringing a message from Jupiter. The walls 
are polished like a piano. The dry coloring was 
rubbed into the fresh (damp) plastering with 

73 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



the fingers— hence the word "freseoe," fresh 
color. 

From there we looked out over the hill to the 
dome of St. Peter's— that masterpiece Michel- 
angelo—and down on the Forum; and heard one 
stoiy crowding upon another, from the Rape of 
the Sabines to the latest excavations. In the fore- 
noon we went to St. Peter's with him and stood 
on the stone where Charlemagne was crowned 
and the church honors are still given. All the 
monumental tombs were explained to us. The 
Apollo Belvedere is the model of an angel on 
one, and many of them have Minerva as a 
guardian angel. He told us of the washing 
of hands as a cermony before and after business 
transactions and likened it to the symbolic use 
of holy water. He called our attention to the 
origin of the words "basilica," "nave" and 
"aisle," and explained how an overturned boat 
suggested the style of the early public build- 
ings. 

74 



SovitHern Italy 



The next morning we went to the Vatican, 
that palace of eleven thousand rooms. Of: 
course, we passed millions of beautiful things 
and stopped only at the masterpieces. The 
living, present feature is the Michel-angelo— 
designed costume of the Swiss guards. Such a 
brilliant coloring of yellow and dark red and 
black! The Sistine chapel is more than I could 
have dreamed of. A perfectly flat roof, but 
arched in effect by the painting. The arches 
look as if supported by the shoulders of the 
prophets! The panels are of the Creation— I 
shall not forget two: in one God is giving life 
to Adam with a spark from his finger, and the 
other is of Eve kneeling to God in adoration. 
The last Judgme^nt— sixjty-four feet across— 
is a strange conception. The Christ has the face 
of strength rather than love, and his body is 
muscular. It is copied from the torso of Hercu- 
les which Angelo claimed to have been his 
teacher. The dead rise from the graves in the 

75 



Foreigri FlasHligKts 



left lower corner, and pass up on that ^^f de- 
Christ stands in the center and judges. The 
just ascend on the right; the unjust go down 
into hell in the right corner. The biggest man 
down there is a portrait of the Pope's Chan- 
cellor, w^ho criticized Michelangelo's figures be- 
cause they were nude. Michelangelo said we 
go to judgment without any covering, but he 
covered parts of that portrait that coils of a 
serpent and put ass's ears on him. 

So many of the paintings have portraits in 
them. We saw portraits of Raphael at fifteen 
as a sleeping guard, at eighteen, twenty-one 
and thirty-six in the paintings where he need- 
ed many faces. Other famous men too, Dante. 
Savonarola, etc. Raphel's transfiguration. 
Madonna di Foligni and Domenichino 's St. 
Jerome are in the same room— the masterpieces 
of Rome! The Liberation of. St. Peter, by 
Raphael, over and on each side of a window, 
is so real that the prison barred painted win- 
76 



SoMtKern Italy 



dow seems as if it must be a continuation of 
the real one. The lights, the torches, the moon 
in first quarter, and the radiant holiness of the 
angels give wonderful effect. As Carl Justi 
sa3'S, those holys pictures have a "gift of lan- 
guage intelligible to all times and peoples, to 
dU classes, and even to aliens to the "faith." 

The ]\Iother Church, S. S. Giovanni in Later- 
ano is the shape of the Maltese Cross, llie 
court, once a part of an old monastery, is sur- 
rounded by twisted mosaic columns that sup- 
port the inner roof. The old chair used for 
the Pope's coronation is in this court, and a 
beautiful new one in mosaic is in the cathedral. 
It is very new, for the Pope is a prisoner of 
the Vatican and cannot use it. The papal pul- 
pit has not been used since Pius IX. A mos- 
aic over the new papal chair is an allegorical 
study. A tree with four rivers (the Gospels) 
flowing from it, lambs drinking from the stream, 
and the dove whose light falls upon the face 
77 



Foreign FlasKligHts 



of the Savior. This is the second representa- 
tion of Christ. The first is "uncomely" ac- 
cording to Isaiah; so this was to be more beau- 
tiful, and it is a face of strong sympathy and 
beauty. It is so high and there are no seats 
(as it is in all the churches) so there are dif- 
ficulties in studying it even if we had the time. 

Outside the church stands an obelisk captured 
from Anthony and Cleopatra, at the battle of 
Actium. It dated from Rameses II and was a 
land mark for Moses ! A short drive brought us 
to Pontius Pilate's Palace the Scala San eta, 
up which Christ walked and was scourged; and 
upon which Martin Luther kneeled and heard 
the voice which led to the reformation. Two peo- 
ple were kneeling from step to step— saying a 
prayer on each and kissing the floor at the top. 
This gives them a thousand years out of Purj.-a- 
tory. 

The baths of Oaracalla demonstrate the 
spacious elegance of ancient Rome, with its 

78 



So\itKem Italy 



gymnasia and baths to accomadate sixteen 
hundred at one time, and its halls for music, 
poetry and philosophy. On the floors are 
still patches of red and green porphory in nau- 
tilus pattern, and the niches in the walls need 
only a mental picture to be filled Avith statuary. 
So, too, must the mind's eye fill the arches of 
the coliseum with graceful figures in marble; 
must cover its dull brick walls with marble 
veneering, and top it with a sheltering roof of 
gay awnings manned by one thousand sailors: 
must fill its seats with eighty-seven thousand 
of the beauty and valor of Rome who clap 
their hands to approve the cruel victor, who, 
with his opponent, has seemed to spring out 
of the very ground by way of secret elevators. 
One time this victor was Commodius, who kill- 
ed one hundred lions with one hundred jave- 
lins. And the last victim was a monk, Telemach- 
us, who rushed into the arena, and plead with 
the people to cease their cruelty— and they 
79 



Foreign riasKlig'Kts 



stoned him, as others had stoned St. Stephen. 
But the emperor was moved and there was 
never another butchery. 
My dear little daughter: 

We have been this morning, walking around 
and over the original Rome, a square one and 
one-quarter miles around. Aunt Lucy wil! 
tell you the story of the wolf in the picture. 
Dr. Russell Forbes, who took us about this 
morning, told us Romulus and Remus were puc 
in a basket and thrown into a branch of the 
Tiber. They were found by a shepherd and 
nursed by Luper, his wife, but her name was 
the same as the word for wolf, so legend has 
it that a wolf nursed them. We went thro' 
houses built one on top of another, for they 
had flat roofs and one roof would make the 
next floor. Seven hundred fifty-three years be- 
fore Christ seems a long time ago, but those walls 
are firm. 

Dr. Forbes told us how the geese cackled and 
80 



SoutKern. Ital^ 



saved Rome, and no goose is ever sold for food" 
to this day. Don't you think your pet hens. 
Kate and Duplicate would be glad to bequeath 
such a safeguard to all their chickens? 

We were at St. Peter's Cathedral yesterday 
and saw his statue. It is black. It is placed out 
in the main aisle where every one passes it. And 
most people stop to rub the big toe with their 
sleeve. The statue is just high enough for me 
to reach it with my mouth, and many people 
lifted their children up to kiss it. The toe is 
more than half worn away with all the devo- 
tion of the people. 

Mrs. Lewis has just brought in a magnolia 
surely ten inches across and so fragrant! I 
wish you could see it! She gave me a cameo 
bracelet, which I have on. We had been shop- 
ping for Roman pearls and scarfs. The Roman 
pearl shop invited visitors, and we watched 
the girls cut the beads out of a piece of alab- 
aster, cool them and dip them on a knitting 

8i 



Foreign FlasKliglits 



needle into a paste of whatever color desired. 

The best ones are dipped twenty times and are 

supurb. 

beauty. It is so high and there are no seats 

In the afternoon, Leonard took Mrs. Lewis 
and me a beautiful drive thro' the Borghese 
gardens and over the Pincian Hill where we 
can see the city in panorama. It was a beau- 
tiful and restful drive and statues of Victor 
Hugo and Goethe make one think Rome is not so 
old— but they Avere the exception— everywhere 
were broken pieces of architecture and 
statuary. There is an interesting water clock, 
where the dripping from the fountain makes 
the pendulum swing from side to side. The 
water falls into a boat with a dividing wall. 
When one end of the boat is full, it tips and 
the other end catches the water until it is full 
and tips, that is the regulator. 

I feel that our stay here has been a mere 
taste. It would take a year, I am sure, to be 
82 



SoxatHem Italy 



familiar with all the history and legend that 
every corner is full of. The exteriors are very 
ugly, many of them, but the churches on the 
inside are faced with beautiful marbles in pan- 
el work— exquisite mosaics that are so fine the 
stones can not be seen even with good lenses. 

After such a day saturated with history, we 
went to the opera last evening to hear the Bar- 
ber of Seville, and Pagliacci. The opera house 
seemed small. The orchestra numbered more 
than fDrty pieces and played as one instru- 
ment under a very enthusiastic leader. We 
enjoyed both operas— the contadini were not 
powdered or painted nor corseted, but looked 
as natural as they are, and no prettier. The 
singing was excellent. The stalls, as they are 
called, corresponding to our boxes and balconies, 
are in four tiers straight up from the floor in- 
stead of receding balconies- The best dressed 
people sat in them. 

This morning we climbed flight upon flight of 

83 



Foreign FlasKlig'Hts 



Stairs thro ' an open court to St. Peter in Chains, 
^vhere we found Michelangelo's famous Moses. 
We sat and looked at the strength and decision 
in every line, the softness of the long beard 
held in by the finger— the left foot ready to lift 
the body and speak his niessag-e or decree. I 
do not wonder the sculptor slapped him on the 
knee and said, " Speak 1" 

Then we tooK: a carriage and c'rove to the 
Fountain of Trevi— and drank from our hand 
and threw the penny into the fountain with 
our faces turned away and scrambled over rocks 
so we couldn't even get a peep at the fountain 
and drove away. All this brings us again to this 
mother city. 

NORTHERN ITALY. 

Ju7ie 21, 1907. 
Six hours ride over and under green hills, by 
fields of ripened grain where many men were 
using the sickle, past vineyards where vine and 

84 



Northern Italy 



tree are planted in the same spot, and the vine 
reaching to the top of the low tree, is festoon- 
ed from tree to tree, making a field of garlands, 
past the beautiful lake Trasimeno, whose cas- 
tled island is so imposing— and all the cheerful 
company of happy people, eating cherries that 
would shame America— six hours of such good 
humor that they seemed as one, brought us from 
Rome to Florence. 

Our window looks out upon a street and 
across it into the other windows and shops where 
statuary abounds. Virginia's room looks out 
upon the Arno, which was beautiful last 
night in the moonlight. I looked up and down 
to see Tito swimming in a race for his 
life, but there was nothing but the quivering 
moonlight upon the waves. 

Today we crossed the river several times in 
our drive past Dante *s birthplace and the house 
wherq Elizabeth B. Browning departed this 
I'ife. A tablet commemoraites each revered 



85 



Foreign FlasHlig'Kta 



home, and the courier points with pride to 
these names so much loved the world over. 

But the church of Santa Croce is richest in 
memorials to genius. Michelangelo's tomb and 
Galileo's are on opposite sides at the entrance 
of the church, and the tombs of Machiavelli, 
Rossini, Cherubini, and many other illustrious 
men, border the walls. Memorials to Dante 
and Amerigo Vespucci are here too. All arc 
beautiful works of art- Several of them by Con- 
ova, and the Giotto pulpit is very beautiful- The 
frescoes are being uncovered. A white wash 
was coated over the walls after a plague when 
the sick had been harbored here. 

The Duomo where Savonarola preached was 
what I wanted to see. I could better under- 
stand his freedom of speech when I saw how far 
from the altar his pulpit was hung — it is no 
longer used. The dome of the Duomo is fres- 
coed with illustrations from Dante's Divine 
Comedy, and a small picture of the mountain 
86 



Northern Italy 



is on one side of tiie church. The floor is very 
beautiful with inlaid marble designed by Michel- 
angelo. Giotto's Campanila is all that we read 
about— a poem in black and white marble. The 
Baptistry across the street is the same black and 
white stone. The doors would have interested 
me for hours, but we are truly playing tag in 
Florence, so I bought a picture postal of them 
and had to be content. AA^e went to the old 
palace- the toAvn hall-built by Savonarola, and 
in whose tower he was imprisoned forty days, 
and just outside of which he was burned at the 
stake. It seemed the irony of fate that in the 
very hall of the very city where he Avould have 
justice and charity abound— he must suffer for 
the injustice and cruelty of his fellow citizens. 
In the Uffizi gallery we saw many, many 
beautiful paintings. The adoration of the Vir- 
gin by Correggio, and another of the Shep- 
herds were my choice. There were many copy- 
ists in the gallery doing very good work. Two 
87 



Foreign FlasKlights 



of them were nuns. 

By the way, I saw a company of dominoed 
men crossing the Ponte Vecchio— nothing visi- 
ble but their eyes. This order is composed of 
men in the ordinary walks of life who have 
taken a vow to be ready to aid the needy at 
a moment's call. An elderly American lady 
of our party told us she had been cared for by 
them. A kick from a horse caused her to fall 
upon the street. She awakened from uncon- 
sciousness in a hospital with one of this order 
sitting at her bedside, waiting to serve her in 
any way possible- These dominoed men remind- 
ed me that in Naples, we saw a man with a full 
horses tail on the top of his hat, and several 
with great bunches of dozens of rooster 's tails on 
theirs, but the black dominoes were the most 
conspicuous of all. 

This afternoon, we took a most beautiful drive 
to Bello Sguardo, a high point where the Arno 
and Florence spread out before you in the for- 

88 



NortKern Italy' 



est to the tomb of an Indian Prince. After 
the drive we went to the Ponte Veechio, which 
is bordered with jewelry shops. No museum 
could be more interesting than an antique shop 
there. The jewels indicated the lavish array 
in the days of old— necklaces, bracelets, brooch- 
es, and high combs all set with precious stones, 
form a set. They suggest Savonarola's bon- 
fire of the vanities. 

Virginia bought a necklace of ten large 
cameos, each illustrating a mythological tale. 
I found a cameo of Beatrice de Cenci, which 
I selected as my souvenir if this city of flowers, 
and which I shall always love for the sake of 
the poor girl whose story never grows old. 

A modern art is a mosaic factory, which 
made us hold our breath with wonder at the 
skill. Table tops, wall pictures and jewelry 
were made of the pieces of stone so carefully 
selected for the color and so perfectly placed, 
that the eye denied that art could so well re- 

89 



Foreign FlasHlig'Hts 



fleet nature. A piece ordered by Tiffany was 
under way. Sixty thousand dollars was to be 
the price. 

Venice.— June 23, 1907. 

x\n early breakfast in Florence, eight hours 
over and thro' the Appenines, and across the 
plains, and four miles on a trestle over the 
sea, and lunch at Venice. Much of the way, 
the track lay between fifty foot strips of land, 
separated by trenches with rows of trees grow- 
ing on each side of the trench. As in Southern 
Italy, the trees were festooned with grape- 
vines. A very pretty and must be a very old 
custom, for one of the frescoes in a Pompeian 
dining room ^s a copy of this. 

A step into the gondola, and then an absolute- 
ly motionless glide thro' narrow canals, around 
sharp corners, under arched bridges, with never 
a touch against other gondolas that we meet and 
pass; and our gondolier standing on a platform 
90 



NortKern Italy' 



on the back, guides the boat to the step where 
we alight. In the Grand Canal were barges 
of freight boats; one so laden with black heads 
that it almost dipped the water. These freight 
men were singing to themselves as the glided 
along— the same inflections as those of the mnle 
drivers in Tangiers, and the laborers in Spain 
and Southern Italy. Women were swimming in 
the back door-yards, and one old man sat on 
his step cooling his feet in the water. The lit- 
tle boys performed wonderful athletic stunts, 
revolving on hands and feet for a whole block, 
wherever there was a pavement along the water's 
edge. This was their way of earning an honest 
penny. 

There was no lack of diversion all the way 
to the Royal Daniele— which hotel was to be 
our home for the next few days. The Daniele 
is composed of two old palaces, connected by 
a glass enclosed bridge over the canal. There 
was a little elevator that would carry three 
9t 



Foreign FlasHligHta 



average weight or two large ladies up, and four 
down. So there was a constant "After you, 
my dear Alphonse/' and "I prefer to walk up- 
stairs, it will reduce my hips." After much 
parleying there would be a general scamper of 
all under sixty years and one hundred sixty 
pounds, up or down the great hydranga bor- 
dered stairway. 

Our room is spacious and rich in handsome 
old mahogany. After lunch of the never fail- 
ing omelet, we went to the lace factory and 
lace school; for lace making is taught here as 
arithmetic is at home. There are four thous- 
and girls employed a day, with an average wage 
of one franc. Each girl has her specialty ; some 
making the net, others the separate parts of the 
pattern. The price depends on the time it takes 
to make it, and that is increased by the fine- 
ness of the thread. A really beautiful bertha 
is priced at sixty dollars. 

We live just beyond the prison, on the great 
92 



NortKern Italy 



lagoon, so we must pass the Doge's palace and 
St. Mark's wherever we go. That seems, we 
must always stop going and coming to feed the 
pigeons. An old man sells cornicopias of shell- 
ed corn for a penny each. Every tourist buys, 
and stands in the broiling sun perfectly ob- 
livious to all discomfort, because it is such fine 
fun to have four or six pigeons perched on your 
arms and fingers. "They" told us that the an- 
cestors of these very pigeons brought the news 
of the surrender of Constantinople in 1202, so 
their progeny have been loved and cared for 
ever since. And now, the descendants of these 
news carriers are one of the most interesting 
features of this most interesting city. 

And that word Constantinolpe explains the 
style of St. Marks, for it is very unlike any 
other house of worship. Its five gold and blue 
domes, its many colored marble columns, its 
four bronze horses suggest a very magnificent 
merry-go-round. Within are mosaics or rough 
93 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



glass against a background of gold. The marble 
floors are very uneven, due probably to the 
shifting sands far below. 

We left a well attended service Sunday 
morning to feed the pigeons that are always 
welcoming strangers in the square. But before 
we had left the steps a man invited us to visit 
the glass works, which are opened to visitors 
until noon. Girls were making mosaic tops for 
jewel boxes, and the men were coiling melted 
glass around the heads of hat pins, rolling them 
into perfect oval, studding them with colored 
glass jewels, and tracing them with scrolls of 
gold. It was all done in a white flame of fire. 

In the afternoon, D wight invited us to go for 
a row (or a paddle) and stop at a beautiful 
garden. Did you know there was a garden in 
Venice? I was surprised to see an island large 
enough. But there we found walks and flowers, 
music and laughter, and the deep blue sea only 
a step away from everywhere. 
94 



NortKern li^l-y 



It was raining in the evening. As we came 
from dinner, we heard singing in the large open 
court- It was a family of men and women 
who usually sing on the lagoon. To the accom^ 
paniment of a has viol and three violins, they 
sang the entire opera of II Trovatore. Their 
voices were so sweet and clear, and the expres- 
sion so dramatic that only the stage setting 
was lacking. One of the women passed a 
plate, and received a few pennies from each of 
her hearers; but why aren't they in America 
receiving those pennies' weight in gold? 

Monday morning was devoted k> the Doge's 
palace after a float across the lagoon to San 
Salute. Our guide told us that on Nov. second 
a pontoon bridge is always built over to the 
church, so the people may cross and give thanks 
for their blessings— especially that of health — 
for the church was built as a thanks offering 
after a plague. 

In the Doge's palace is the first map. It 



95 



Foreign FlasKligHts 



was made in 1495 by a monk who is buried on 
St. Michael's island. The map pictures Europe 
on the south, Asia on the west and Africa on 
tlie north. The rotundity of the Earth was 
not known then, but the boundaiy lines are 
remarkably like the maps of the present day. 

There were paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, 
and Paul Veronese, but these did not interest 
me (altho' one was one hundred fifty feet long) 
as did the talks on the political history of the 
city: the lion's mouth into which secret accusa- 
tions against fellow citizens were passed to the 
Council of Ten or Three, as the case might re- 
quire; the marriage of Doge to the Sea; the 
love and veneration for this elected ruler of 
the city whose term of office expired with his 
life. 

Across the Bridge of Sighs is the dungeon 
dungeon into the passage, there is a single 
where Lord Byron spent twenty-four hours to 
imbibe the atmosphere for his poem. From the 

96 



SoutKcrn Italy 



six inch opening thro' a wall as thick. The 
passage, itself, is perfectly dark, so the slight 
change of air is the only benefit of the open- 
ing. 

The lecture in the afternoon was the most 
perfect in its setting. We rested against luxur- 
ious cushions and glided over the water, five 
gondolas abreast. Our guide stood in the mid- 
dle one, and pointed to the right and left, say- 
ing, "This is the home of Desdemona, a doge's 
daughter. Othello was not a IMoor, but a dark 
skinned Venetian ."It was a narrow house, of 
the best Venetian architecture, on the grand can- 
al near the open sea, or south lagoon. And again 
"This was the home that sheltered Robert 
Browning" or "Richard Wagner," or "Lord 
Byron," as the case might be. As Ave neared 
the Rialto, "We shall step out here, and walk 
thro' that dark street passing an old Avine 
house that is the fabled home of Shylock. A 
few steps thro' the market Avill bring us to a 

97 



Fo reig'n FlasKlig'Hts 



small open square where Gobbo bends his mar- 
ble neck to support a platform from which of- 
ficial announcements are made." 

The Rialto is a highly arched bridge with 
broad steps all the way over it, and on each 
step is a little shop. A walk from the bridge 
thro' very narrow, very crooked streets to St. 
Mark's passes, many shops where ready-made 
garments are sold, and twice as many whose doors 
and windows are hung with corals, glass beads 
and mosaic pins. An appropriate souvenir 
would be a brightly polished steel paper cutter 
patterned after the gondola head which looks 
like an ox and a key— as if it cleaved theway 
and turned the lock. It is a symbol of the 
past— way back in the days of Pepin of France. 

Venice cannot be left without a moonlight 
evening on the water. The singers' lighted gon- 
dola forms a neculeus for others out on the 
lagoon. We are bunched so closely the man pass- 
ing the hat, steps easily from one gondola to 
98 



NortHern Italy 



another, the voices are as smooth as the sea it- 
self. The moonlight on the south scarcely dims 
the rows of the city's lights reflected many times 
in the water. 



Milan— June 25, 1907. 

An early breakfast and a dreamy float in 
the gondolas and we were aboard the train for 
Milan. Another beautiful ride like the day be- 
fore with the mountains of the Tyrol on our 
right and the beautiful lake Garda nestling 
against them. Then we came to fields of short 
stubby trees— cruelly trimmed, and were told 
these were mulberry trees for the silk worms. 
We missed the flowers— the oleander and poppy 
of Spain, and the poppy of southern Italy. The 
air is delightfully cool. 

A drive this afternoon thro' the park to the 
cemetery, where we walked among the forest 
of mausoleums. There are very many bronze 
figures ("very pecurious'' in the language of 
our local guide) and some very good ones rep- 
99 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



resenting the grief of those left behind. To 
liear a lecture every day by a foreigner is far 
from dull. Yesterday we saw "Europa horse- 
back-riding on the bull" in the Doge's palace. 
Another interesting picture there is Paul Vero- 
nese's ''Last Judgment," in which he has 
painted his wife's face in Hell, Purgatory and 
Paradise. 

Speaking of pictures, we went to see Leon- 
ardo di Vinci's "Last Supper" this afternoon. 
It is a fresco on the inside of an outside wall; 
and is badly damaged. Two copies of it, made 
by his pupils, are much more comprehensible. 

If Leonardo had painted on glass with Ber- 
tini 's colors, the tourist would not be disappoint- 
{>d. Bertini painted the windoAvs of the Milan 
Cathedral- Worked on them forty years, and 
died in poverty. Those windows to this day — 
hundreds of years afterwards— are so beautiful 
you catch your breath in admiration . at their 
coloring. The reds and blues are like the ricli- 

100 



NortKern Italx 



est velvets. The hail and wind of all these 
centuries have not broken them— nor the storm 
cf wars. . Truly a wonderful preservation! 
And the setting for the windows is as it should 
be— a holy house. This is the cathedral of 
spires and statues. The structure is as beauti- 
ful as fine lace or a delicate flower. The in- 
terior is so vast and the pillars so gigantic! 
There is no great canopy to obstruct the view 
as at St. Peter's— just a long row of immense 
pillars, with the soft light coming thro' those ex- 
quisite windows; and in mid air under the lan- 
tern where the light falls upon His head, is the 
crucifix. This is truly a house of God— St. Pet- 
er's seems more like a museum. 



SWITZERLAND. 
Lucerne— June 26, 1907. 
AYe thought the ride in Spain along the 
Guadiaro was beautiful, but there are degrees 
of beauty, and we had not seen Switzerland! 

lOI 



Foreign FlasKlig'Hts 



To one living on the plain— with no running 
water (except the muddy Mississippi at the 
distance of a day's journey) the high peaks 
and the beautiful cascades of pure snow water 
splashing down the mountain side, the nestling 
chalets, the picture work in cultivated fields, 
form a panorama that I am helpless in des- 
cribing. I could better tell of the twenty min- 
utes nap through the St. Gotthard tunnel— for 
the brain was weary of the very beauty of the 
Lakes Como, Lugano and Maggiore and their 
reflections of the mountains and snowy clouds. 

I am more helpless than ever in speaking of 
the beauty from my window. I sit here on the 
balcony and look across a little meadow (where 
the hay-makers are yodelling as they work) at 
the stretch of perfectly smooth and clear blue 
water. It looks so still that a squall would be 
impossible ; but I know it was so, long ago when 
Tell was being taken in chains to Zwingen ; and 
was released that he might steer the boat, and 

102 



S^itajerlancl 



bring his tormentors to a safe landing. Across 
this sheet of blue, rise the green mountains, 
embroidered with tall pines; on the peaks— 
and far down the sides— is the eternal snow. 
As we steamed through the valleys and over the 
heights, we saw the garnered grain and the 
snow banks on the same mountain side, and ap- 
parently only a few steps apart. 

I walked across the old Capell bridge and 
studied the quaint triangular paintings in the 
gabled rafters of the roof. There is the pic- 
tured story of the hero of these people just as 
Schiller wrote it for all generations to read and 
Rossini, for all to hear. Surely a noble deed 
does not die. 

Our room at tlie Europe has its interesting 
features. On the beds are the dearest little 
yellow down covers about three inches thick 
and tufted like a comfort. In one corner of the 
room is a great white porcelain stove fully eight 
feet high with a pipe like a great worm coil- 
105 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



ed over it. There are six gilt bands around 
the stove and a band of figures in relief around 
the top. It is really an ornament to the room, 
far different from ours which are only desir- 
able when the bitter weather makes us feel their 
necessity- We have had modification of this 
stove throughout Italy— a brown tile the height 
of a table in Rome, a white one nearly a foot 
higher in Florence, but this gigantic pillar is 
our first as we go northward. Of course, I 
looked in it, at once, to see if little August 
Sti^hla of Nuremburg could get inside his be- 
loved liirschvogel, and ride in it to the king's 
palace. It is true! There is room! This child- 
ish story of the Nuremburg stove recalls the let- 
ter I have just received. 



Beer Park, Wednesday, June 19, 1907. 
Dear Mamma and Papa: 

I have a whole lot to say. It is about Ind- 
ians. AVell I'll begin. This afternoon I thought 
104 



S-witzerland 



I would go over to Helen's to get her to come 
over and play but she wanted to go to the creek. 
After while we were standing on the porch and 
we saw a whole lot of horses. Then we saw an 
Indian leading them, they soon were out of 
sight. We went on trying to decide whether 
TO go to the creek or over to the Manse. Myr- 
tle and Helen wanted to go to the creek. Dor- 
othy and I did not want to. Then we saw four 
Indians over to Myrtle's Grandma's house. 
Myrtle's Grandma's house is right along beside 
their house. They had their flock of horses. 
AVe saw them throw the rope over their necks 
and choke them down. Then they would tie 
a rope around all their feet and let them lie 
there for a while. Then they would break them 
from their wild, wooly ways. They had a hard 
fight but the Indian beat- The two I have been 
talldng about were sold for thirty-two dollars, 
for both. Then a man wanted a gray horse 
and Indians broke it for him and he would not 
105 



Foreig'n Flashlights 



take it. The Indians said they were going to 
lick him but he got away. Then another man 
wanted a mouse colored horse with a colt the 
color of Pet. The Indian had a hard time to 
catch the right one. He rode the other two 
for nothing. He wanted money to ride this 
one. He got a dollar. Then they took their 
flock and did not break it for him, but they 
Jeft their ropes. Helen's Grandpa picked up 
the ropes as quick as he could and put them in 
thebarn. The man that bought the horse with 
the colt is in a pretty fix. 

I hope you are having a good time and enjoy 
your trip. Amen. 



June 28, 1907. 
If I had risen at three yesterday morning, it 
would have been to tell you of the nightingales' 
liquid whistle that poured in thro' our open 
windows. Birds are rare in southern Europe 
and this was the first time I ever heard a bird 
1 06 



S'witzerland 



singing in the night (Virginia heard them iu 
Granada, but I slept too well and was so sorry!) 
It is even more beautiful than listening to the 
meadow lark from my window at home, and that 
is one of the joys of life. 

But I didn't rise— which deserves mention 
after so many mornings of five o'clock break- 
fasts and six o'clock trains (but really that is 
the time to see this beautiful world.) 

We took the lake steamer yesterday morning 
for Vitznau— such a beautiful sail ! The air 
clear and invigorating, the water transparent 
to the very bottom and the- mountains rising 
peak upon peak on every side. On one promi- 
tory only fifty feet above the water with a 
background of the green trees, stood a carved 
wooden image of Christ blessing the waters. It 
is most impressive. Very near is a tiny 
island that is entirely covered with a 
gabled shrine. The lake itself is in the shape 
of a cross— a shrine reflecting its Maker and 

107 



Foreign FlasHlig'Hts 



giving joy to this people. 

At Vitznau, we took the cog railway and 
climbed up the Rigi to the very top. What a 
view is there! Whole towns look like groups 
01 toys that you could hold in your hand. We 
counted ten towns, some of them giving liomes 
to thirty-five thousand people, and they were 
as a child's Noah's Ark. And three lakes spread 
out to our view. Blue as blue can be! When 
the time came to depart, it seemed that I could 
not get my breath at the thought of leaving 
so much beauty. It was like leaving a friend 
I had always longed to find. 

Upon our return to Lucerne, we strolleu up 
the village street to the park where the famous 
lion is carved into the side of the cliff. There 
is a pool of gold fish in front of the monument, 
and the trees that grow near hang their branches 
like garlands against the rock Avail that forms 
the gigantic frame. The flashing gold fish and 
the light and shadow seem to pay tribute to the 
io8 



S-witzerland 



king of beasts. There lie lies, his paw, even in 
death, is protecting the fleur cle lis of the Bour 
bons, and at his head is the shield of Switzcp 
land. The streams of people that are constantly 
coming to look at it, pay their tribute too, in 
silent appreciation. 

The Glacier Gardens are another monument 
— not to character but to the millions of years 
gone by when boulders, like pebbles, were churn- 
ed against the rocks by the action of the ice 
streams, until great pot holes, twenty-seven 
feet across and twenty-nine feet deep, Avere made 
by the friction. The great pebbles still lie in 
the greater pots. A powerful stream was dash- 
ing into one of the pot holes and churning the 
great boulder to demonstrate the action of the 
stone against its rocky bed. Then too, side by 
side with these ice mills were stones with the 
fauna, and flora of the tropical lands and seas 
in them— the palm leaf is very plain. 

The next sight was the old mill bridge which 

109 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



took us thro' the old part of the city. There 
in the gables, are the paintings of the dance 
of Death, visiting man at every stage of life. 

At 6:30 every day a concert of organ and 
vocal music is given at the Cathedral. The 
organ was built by the inventor of the "vox 
humana" stop. The organist was equal to his 
instrument and gave us the most soulful music. 
The singers' voices (men) blended perfectly.. 
The church was full of people who scarcely 
breathed during a rendition. 

Wood carving is the chief industry. One small 
picture cut in a block of wood not more than 
ten by twelve inches was priced at one hundred 
and twenty dollars. 



Interlaken—Jtme 30, 1907. 

While the tired oozes out of my feet, I'll try 

to think what has happened in the past two 

days. There were moving pictures and some 

pretty magic work at the hotel in Lucerne Fri- 

IIO 



Sivitzerlancl 



day night. The magician made an omelet in 
a chafing dish. When the lid was removed two 
white doves flew out. She also pealed an orange 
and out flew a canary. 

The next morning, we rose early again and 
left Lucerne with expostulations of regret. A 
train ride over the Brunig Pass (where we had 
a glass of delicious milk) and along the lakes 
of Sarnen and Lungern and at last by steamer 
on the Briens and Aare to Interlaken. It was 
a beautiful trip— every step of the way! The 
lakes reflecting the hills and chalets, the wind- 
ing roads of grey-white against the clean green 
of the mountain! 

As I sit here in the writing room, I look 
across a garden of flowers and fountains to the 
Jungfran. All the village is built with that in 
view. The trees are topped about the height of 
a grape arbor so you can look over them at the 
''bride of the Alps." 

Leonard and I walked in the afternoon, and 
III 



Torei^n FlasKli^Hts 



rested at the Kursaal, a beautiful park with 
flowers and statuary, leading to a great shelter 
ed audience room where an orchestra playai 
sweetly, and the most picturesque of Swiss maids 
serve you with any kind of refreshment. The 
people sit fully an hour sipping a single glass of 
beer, and listening to the music, and gazing 
out over the musicians' heads at the Jun^^ran 

We attended a Scotch Presbyterian service 
this morning. There is one church with several 
auditoriums and the signs pointing to "Roman 
Catholic," "Church of England," Service in 
French," and Scotch Presbyterian." This is 
the nearest to church unity that I know of. It 
is the first non Roman church we have visited 
since we left the steamer. 

We walked up on the mountain to Heim.veh- 
fluh this afternoon. That proved to be another 
" Restauration " as the signs here have it, and 
very well put, I think. The view there is very 
beautiful of Interlaken in the valley of the 

112 



Switzerland 



Aare and the lakes of Brienz and Thun on each 
side. Our walk home passed a house with the 
inscription ''\ATio has peace in his heart lives 
in a palace.** 

July 1, 1907. 

The warm fragrance of the hotel is very pleas- 
ant after a day spent in the ice and snow of the 
Jungfrau. We left here at eight this morning 
for Lauterbrunneu, where we held our breath 
to see the cog railway that was to take us ui> 
to Scheidegg. It was a strange sight— the banks 
of snow and the quantities of flowers side by 
side. And such flowers! So delicate and of 
every color— the butter-cup and daisy, the for- 
get-me-not, pansy and the cornflower— just 
great sloping hillsides of beauty! 

In order to forget how cold and hungry we 
were, we had some fine chorus singing at Schei- 
degg— the familiar songs. Auld Lang Syne, and 
many others, while the lunch was being served. 
IT3 



Foreig'n FlasKligHts 



An Englishman present said Americans knew 
how to have a good time. After lunch another 
railway— an electric line— took us thro' a long 
tunnel, two miles long, thro' the solid rock, to 
Eismeer. A wonderful piece of engineering! 
Arrived there we ran out to the daylight and 
saw oceans of snow. Snow so vast and deep 
that the mind could not fathom the foundation 
of it. Heaps upon heaps, as far as the eye 
could reach in every direction. The rain was 
pouring down below us, for we were ten thou- 
sand three hundred feet high, had climbed about 
four thousand feet thro' the tunnel- Of course, 
Dwight washed my face with snow, and I threw 
a ball at Leonard. 

We came down the mountain to Grindelwald 
and took a train back to Interlaken. If any 
one can describe this Swiss scenery, read it— 
I am helpless. But, if you can imagine a fall 
of water nine hundred sixty feet, you will know- 
one of the beauties of that day. The name of it 

114 



S'witzerland 



is Stauback— dust fall, because the water sep- 
arates into very thin mist. Another wonder 
was a glacier lying apparently motionless in 
the valley. It had made a path through a pine 
forest. 



July 2, 1^01— Railway from Berne to Strass- 
hurg. 

We reached Berne about two hours before 
lunch, in time to feed the Royal bears of the 
House of Hapsburg ; to see the town clock strike 
and the bear images make a circuit of a little 
tower; to see the horrible Boy-eater over the 
fountain; the markets under tarpaulins stretch- 
ed in the open squares; the long arcades where 
all that can be bought and sold is in view; the 
women with their tight braids wound around 
their (heads, (sweeping the sitreets with long 
fagot brooms, and polishing men's shoes; the 
dog carts, and the beautiful bridge built high 
over the valley and the river Aare. The view 
"5 



Foreigfn FlasHligKts 



from here is beautiful as is every reach of vis- 
ion in this garden spot. The chalets lend them- 
selves so perfectly to the landscape. The rich 
browns of the unpainted protruding beams whicn 
form the walls are so harmonious with the ven- 
dure of the hills. The overhanging roofs with 
wide overspreading eaves look like real shelter 
—as the *'hen that gathereth her chickens.'* 



A BIT OF GERMANY. 
July 3 — Strasshurg. 
At the market this morning we saw women 
with their tons of carrots, cherries, potatoes, 
etc., every cart had a great dog helping either 
man or woman (more often a woman) pull it. 
Boys on bicycles with baskets the length of 
their backs and heads, were carrying loaves of 
bread longer than the baskets. The women's 
head dress is so unique— a sash of four and 
ODC-half yards of ribbon, six inches wide, tied 

ii6 



Germany 

in a double dow— the loops hanging over the 
shoulders and the ends all the way down the 
back to the waist- The rest of the costume is 
not striking as is the Swiss. The colored silk 
apron, black velvet bodice, laced with silver 
cord and hung with silver chains, the white 
bosom and stiff white sleeves, make any girl 
picturesque. And the men wear the greenest 
of green aprons. 

There was a real cloud burst this a. m., but it 
did not keep us from going to see the famous 
clock, with the apostles and the crowing rooster 
(some of our party thought it was an eagle— 
so much for their Bible knowledge.) The cIock 
is a wonderful machine! Phaeton in his char- 
iot and four other pagan gods make a circuit 
in the twenty-four hours. There is a calen- 
dar of the three hundred sixty-five days— with 
the holy days all marked; a dial showing the 
hours of sunrise and sunset; another with the 
sun, the signs of the zodiac and all the plan- 
117 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



ets, all these revolve in their correct times. On 
the highest balcony is the image of Christ 
around which all the Apostles walk and bow, 
and He makes the sign of the cross. On the bal- 
cony below, Death stands with his scythe and 
strikes the hours. At the first quarter a child 
enters, a matured man at the half, a middle 
aged man at the three quarters, and an old man 
at the hour. There are so many wonderful 
things about it, that it would weary you even 
if I could remember. But I must add this— it 
hasn't -been repaired for forty-seven years. 

The munster is part Norman and part Goth- 
ic architecture. They are very different— the 
smooth round columns of the one, the grooved 
pillars and grained arches of the other. 

There is a pulpit— a lacey carving of mar- 
ble. Around the bottom the sculptor has 
chiseled portraits of himself, his wife, his father 
and his dog. Do you suppose he could not en- 
grave his name? 

ii8 



Germany 

Fourth of July—Heidelhurg. 

The stars and stripes wave from our window 
and over our table, but there are no firecrack- 
ers to frighten us— a very peaceful time— and 
just as keen patriotism as if it were noisy. The 
stars and stripes are tiying even from the Uni- 
versity. And American students were flying 
our flag at the table in the garden last night. 
We were passing vv^hen they "spotted' us and 
invited us to join them. We lost no opportun- 
ity to ask about the students in the colored caps 
of green or blue or white, and were told they 
were fraternity men; the white capped coming 
from the most aristocratic homes. They told 
us, too, that one morning a week is set aside 
for the duelling, which is really the most wide- 
ly remembered feature of this renowned Univer- 
sity. 

At the old Schloss are several women lectur- 
ers, who lead you up and down, in and out, 
thro' dark passages, and out on high levels over- 
119 



Foreign FlasHli^Hts 



looking the Neckar and its beautiful valley, and 
thro' the great gate (with its heavy port-cullis) 
that leads to the bridge over the river, Down 
in a cellar is the six thousand barrel wine cask, 
whose replica we saw in the Hotel Astor wine 
room; and a larger cask, which formerly was 
connected with the dining room by a great 
pump. The platform on top of it could be a 
dancing floor, for four quadrilles. The walls 
of this great castle are seventeen feet thick ; the 
on our way to the hotel- Our dining room 
flues where the barbecue was prepared are ninty 
feet high; and the bread oven has a sixty-foot 
chimney. 

A walk to the market before breakfast gave 
us a peep at beautiful windows of shops not 
yet open. The market place was crowded with 
women, and we met many pushing their carts 
—but there were no dogs to help them. We 
saw no Alsatian bows adorning their heads— 
indeed their heads w^ere uncovered. It seemed 

120 



Germany 

strange to find such a marked difference in so 
few hours ride from Strassburg. The old church, 
forming one boundary of the market place, has 
little shops nestling within its flying buttress- 
es. It is common to see great loads of small 
wood, being drawn by one horse hitched to a 
single pole. We never saw two horses except 
to a carriage. 

We think of the Germans as low, but wit- 
nessed a force of city workers that accomplish- 
ed more than the street laboring voters at 
home. We left the hotel at 6:45 a. m. for our 
walk and all was quiet — no one in sight. At 
eight, when we returned, the asphalt paving 
of the cross roads had been removed- At 9:30 
we started for a drive and found that the new 
composition was laid and being made smooth. 
When we returned at 11 :00, we drove over the 
new road, as did every other vehicle. 



121 



Foreig'n FlashligKts 



Mayence. 

I am sitting in our room looking out of the 
window to the Stadthalle on the Rhine, and 
until 9 :15 this evening the 'daylight lasted. 
Now the river is even more beautiful, reflecting 
the lights along its banks; and the garden is 
like a dream of music with the voices of laugh- 
ter and good cheer. 

Our ride today was bordered with grape 
vines, not festooned from trees as in Italy, but 
supported by poles and cross bars, as regularly 
placed as the threads of muslin. Women (at 
12 1-2 cents a day) were weeding this earth- 
en cellar— as the ground looked to us. There 
were a few fields of wheat — no corn — and the 
poppies grow in it just enough to make the 
field the prettiest sight imaginable. 

We lost a good deal of scenery in having our 
palms read, by one of the cleverest girls in 
our party. Our youngest member is to become 
famous thro^ marriage, our prettiest girl has 



Germany 

a very stubborn thumb, Dwight has the most 
practical hand she ever saw, and has made the 
most of his opportunities, Virginia does even 
the most trival thing artistically and is a good 
nurse. While all this was going on, Leonard 
stepped out at the end of the car to close the 
door— which opens, by the way, on either side. 
He pulled the wrong thing, touched an air- 
brake and the train stopped. Of course it went 
on again— or we should not be here now. 

This city is very beautifully laid out all the 
way from the station to this hotel— the Holland. 
There are long squares of grass and flowers bor- 
dering our drive. After dinner we walked in 
the old narrow streets that curve as in every 
old city. Basket making must be one of the 
industries for the shop windows have every 
variety. Tomorrow, we experience a longed 
for desire— a trip down the Rhine. I shall look 
for Das Rhinegeld and the maidens. 



123 



Foreign FlashligKts 



Cologne— July 5, 1907. 
A most delightful sail down the Rhine today 
—indeed, I do not know how it could be other 
than delightful any day ! The river bends so con- 
stantly that we seem to be in a lake all the time, 
and steering for the shore. There are railroad 
tracks and wagon paths on each side of the 
river.^ Trains of many handsome coaches were 
passing us frequently— occasional automobiles, 
and one load of hay drawn by a team of cows 
—such is the German thrift. It must be such 
sights that prompted Mark Twain in his recipe 
for German coffee to say, "Unhitch your cow 
from the plow, obtain a blue liquid, etc." But 
to get back to the Rhine. The steamers and 
freight barges were so numerous on the river 
that it is evident all the business of this world 
is not on our side of the water. The fields and 
vineyards ai^ cared for until not a weed can 
grow in them, unless a poppy deserves such 
a name. The banks are so steep along the upper 
124 



Germany 



Rhine that the fields are made of terraces. And 
on many a rocky cliff of the same color and 
seeming to be made of the same rock, nestling 
among, or towering above the thick foilage of 
the trees, are the castles that have the many 
legends which every girl has dreamed of. The 
one thought that is most pronounced, as I see 
new types of man's abode, is the perfect har- 
mony, the absolute blending of man's work with 
the world God made for him. There is not 
that feeling in the cities, but there surely is 
in the country round about. 

We had a fine river view of Bonn, the birth- 
place of Beethoven, and burial place of Robert 
Schumann. The street cars passing at frequent 
intervals, the "Quaker Oats," and "57 Heinz 
Varieties" signs everywhere, dispelled the halo 
with which my mind had encircled the town. 
But if we could have landed and visited the 
sacred palaces, reverence would have returned. 

We spied the Coin Cathedral towers on our 

125 



Foreig'n FlasKligKts 



left half an hour before landing. In a few 
minutes we looked again and they were on our 
right— the other side of the river apparently. 
Soon again they were on our left, and so re- 
mained until we drove by the magnificent pile 
here is so handsome— that quiet richness so 
characteristic of Germany— the smooth grey- 
green wood and blending tapestry; and lights 
forming an oval ceiling piece, and penOfant 
side wall pieces. We never have time to peep 
into a hotel parlor— they may be beautiful and 
there may not be any. Dinner over, we rush 
out to see everything. Tonight we found an 
automat. Our friends were new to the busi- 
ness, and were as happy as children over it. 

As usual, Leonard and I went for an early 
walk to the market and looked in the shop win- 
dows on our return. Cologne is a beautiful 
city— much more cosmopolitan than the cities 
of Italy. The windows show a desire to please 
all tastes, and the styles do not differ from 
126 



Germ 



an>- 



x\merican. Many shoe windows had the sign 
"American Form" in them. Virginia bought 
her a pair of beautiful shoes made in Baltimore, 
and rubbers made in New York. We were told 
before leaving home that they could not be 
bought. Burnt leather is the most frequent 
window exhibit. The book covers and waste-pa- 
per boxes are exquisite! The store windows 
extend far down below the pavement, and the 
goods are most temptingly arranged for the 
passerby to look down and see great caves of 
wealth in color, form and fibre. 

But quite the opposite of modern luxuries was 
our morning walk— first to the church of St. 
Ursula, commemorating the death of that Saint 
and eleven hundred Christian women at the 
hands of Attila, or some other barbarian, about 
450 A. D. I expected to shiver with the hor- 
rors when surrounded by all those sacred hones, 
and was surprised to find a decided Moorish 
style of architecture within, and no sign of 
127 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



skeletons unless you peered into dark cubby 
holes to find them. The rows of skulls with 
embroidered bands to cover the ugliness of the 
mouth, were indeed pathetic. When I think 
of all the tortures that were suffered in the 
past, I cannot but wonder why it was so. What 
have we done more than they, that life is all one 
glorious burst of sunshine for us? 

The Cologne Cathedral is another of the 
sacred ones- Indeed, visitors are not allowed 
to walk about during the service; that pleas- 
ed me. There are pews for the worshippers. 
We have not found them in other churches ex- 
cept St. Ursula. The worshippers everywhere 
have seemed totally oblivious of our presence, 
but I have always felt like an intruder. The 
vastness of everything— of the pillars, (eighty 
feet in circumference) of arches over head, of 
the two lacey steeples! But the glory of it is 
in the millions of hours of human strength de- 
voted to its construction. There is a beauti- 
128 



Holland 

fill legend that the architect, Master Gerard, 
made a bet with the Devil, his soul to be the 
wager. The Devil bet he would have ducks 
swimming on a canal from Treves to Coin be- 
fore the cathedral was finished. It became a 
mania with Gerard, and when he found the 
canal made, he dashed himself off the high 
scaffolding. Lightning struck his house the 
same day. The cathedrla was not finishea for 
six hundred years. 



HOLLAND. 

Amsterdam. 
Twas a long train ride to Amsterdaam, but 
not tiresome. For acres and acres, as far as 
the eye could reach were green fields, with 
never a fence— just lonesome looking farm gates 
standing like samples at a fair. These were on 
bridges over the canals— for the fields are 
fenced with water. It was a strange sight to 
129 



FoTeig'TX Flash lig'Kts 



see a steamboat or a sailsliip crossing a grassy 
pasture ! And even the windmills ! How much 
more beautiful they are than can be pictured! 
The doors and shining windows with staivhy 
curtains, the thatched sides and roof, and the 
four great arms that look so strong to pump 
the water or grind the grain. I should like to 
write a poem about the windmill as the pre- 
server of the nation! 

After our supper here at Amsterdam, we went 
to walk The streets were so crowded we could 
scarcely make our way. At last a policeman 
told us we must walk on the right side of the 
street. This must be a thickly populated city, 
for there was no unusual occasion to take the 
people out. 

July 7, 1907. 
This has been a most interesting day! We 
took a steamer and went out thro' a lock into 
the Zuyder Zee— three feet above the land— to 
130 



Holland 



the Eiland of Maarken. There are one thousand 
four hundred people living there— descendants* 
of the original families, six hundred year^ 
ago. They dress as their forefathers did— 
bloomers for the men, colored and flowered 
basques, lace caps and aprons over black skirts 
for the women. The girls and boys dress just 
like the women until they are eight,, when the 
boy puts on bloomers. By close scrutiny, you 
can find that the little boys have a circular 
crown in their caps— the girls not. The men 
catch herring and are at sea from Monday un- 
til Saturday- They are very religious and go 
to the Protestant church. But by the time we 
landed at noon, the children were at the shore 
to meet us and beg for money. 

We landed again at Monnikendan, a quaint 
catholic town. The church is seated wdth rush 
bottom chairs. Under each woman's chair is 
a little charcoal stove for her feet. The men 
do not have cold feet. There is no other heat 

131 



Foreig'n FlasKlig'Hts 



in the church. Then we steamed thro' the 
canal to Broeck where we landed again to see 
the process of making Edam cheese. The barns 
joining the house, are as clean as sand stone 
floors can be, and all the woodwork is painted. 
A cupboard bed is in the wall, and the baby 
sleeps in a narrow trough-shelf built cross- 
wise, high above his parents' heads. 

We walked along the perfectly laid sidewalk, 
under the symmetrically trimmed trees, pass- 
ing house after house with their shining win- 
dows. And we were not more interested in 
the surroundings than the villagers were in us. 
At every window were faces, and nearly all or 
the windows were provided with outside mir- 
rors that reflected the passerby. I was quite 
startled when looking into one fastened to a 
window far to the rear of the house, to see in 
the mirror a searching old face— as curious as 
mine. 

We steamed home thro' a canal— could almost 
133 



Holland 

touch the grass on each side. On one of the 
banks where there was a little slope, three grown 
girls were rolling over in the grass. Several 
solitary fishers sat watching their poles, and 
one, who had gone to sleep, was wakened by 
the water which the steamer dashed over the 
bank. Lovers, too, were lounging in the high 
grasses, and we wondered whether the swish 
of wetting would not be a startling interrup- 
tion. 

In the evening we walked thro' the Jewish 
districts where thousands of children were mer- 
ry-making. A dozen or more joined us in our 
stroll— really, we could hardly walk for them. 
A man drove them away but seven came back 
and walked with us a mile, I should think. I felt 
like the Pied Piper of Hamlin. 

Passing thro' the streets the next morning, 

the costumes of the dear old ladies, with their 

quaint lace and gold bespangled caps, was what 

we most enjoyed. Then, too, it was good to see 

133 



Foreign FlasWli^Kts 



the statue of Eembrant and his comfortable 
home, and the Ryk museum. 

We looked at only the most famous paintings. 
Rembrant's Night Watch is more than I could 
appreciate in the time we had, but as I think 
of it, I recall the coloring, light and shadow, 
and action. But I enjoyed The Endless Prayer 
much more. The dear old woman's prayer is 
answered before she loses her last breath! A 
beautiful, peaceful face sitting before her fru- 
gal table ! 

On the first floor are the costumes of the 
many provinces of Holland. Such a study of 
styles! So queer, some of them so beautiful! 
We went to the Royal Palace, too- It was 
built for a town hall. I think I enjoyed the 
bas-reliefs over the doors of the departments 
as much as anything— Mars for War, Venus 
for Marriage, Darius Green's prototype for the 
treasury, etc. Very clever, don't you think? 
Queen Wilhelmenia lives in this building one 
144 



Holland 



week of the year. It is beautifully equipped 
for her. The throne chair has emeralds and 
rubies in the crown at the back. The wall ta- 
pestries in each room are like the chair fur- 
nishings. Over one small door is a fresco so 
like marble bas-relief that we had to stand un- 
der it and see it was a flat surface before we 
could believe our eyes. It is as deceptive as the 
ceiling of the Milan Cathedral which is paint- 
ed, but looks like carved marble. 



The n ague— July 9. 

No day could be more crowded with seeing 
things than this one. Before the party started 
at 9 :30, we walked as if to a fire to the Arcade 
to buy a tile. I had one minute to make the 
purchase and then make the return trip, but 
found that our money was not acceptable. Then 
we wanted the tile worse than ever. 

We joined the party and went thro* the 
Spanish prison. Such horrors of torture are in- 

135 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



conceivable! I wonder whether the government 
offered prizes for the latest devices in inflicting 
pain. I never stayed in the room to hear the 
lecture, but it came thro' the air on the hear- 
ers' tongues. To see was enough for me. Like 
all else in Holland, it was exquisitely clean- 
The board steps scrubbed white— no cobwebs 
even in the dungeons. I do not wonder tha* 
the Puritans were extermists. We met a school 
of children in the prison. In so many historic 
places we find children not more than twelve. 
These tours are a part of their public instruc- 
tion, I am told. 

It was a relief to visit the senate chamber. 
The quiet green cushions and desk covers in 
the silent room gave just the right setting to 
the splendid portrait of Queen Wilhemena's 
grandfather standing back of the president's 
chair. At the art museum, I lingered vvith 
Murillo's Madonna. I believe I like it better 
than anything in Italy or Spain. When we 
136 



Holland 



entered the room where Paul Potter's Bull 
stands, in an instant I was entering another 
room like it holding my mother's hand, for I 
saw the bull in Philadelphia in 1876. It is 
wonderful! The hair is so soft and real, you 
can scarcely resist rubbing it. And the ar- 
tist was only twenty-two when he painted it 
in 1847. Rembrant's Antomy is in that gal- 
lery, but I am not studying anatomy and did 
not look at it. We walked over to the House 
of Knights where the Peace Conference was 
in cession and waited for the most honored 
of every nation to appear. Nothing cou^i bet- 
ter prove how all the world's akin, fo* we 
were doubtful as to all the nationalities except 
the Japanese and a strong guess at the Rus- 
sian embassies. An Argentine delegate and 
his family, a beautiful wife and four lovely 
children, eat at the table next to us. TVe could 
have guessed that they live in Illinois. 

At two o'clock, we took carriages to drive 

137 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



to the Palace in the Woods. The drive thro* 
the mossy trees is as dreamy and restful as the 
woods always are. These are real woods- 
great, tall trees growing everywhere— leaf - 
mould and tender weeds covering the ground- 
At the end of the drive is a very plain brick 
palace in an exquisite garden of walks, vines, 
flo"wers, lakes and statuary. The interior of 
the palace rivals all language. The walls and 
furniture in the dining room are of Chinese 
embroideiy showing the cultivation of rice. 
The next room is Japanese in birds and bridges 
and exquisite lacquered cabinets. The walls 
of the central room are covered with paintings 
symbolizing the life of Frederic Henry, who 
died before the building was finished. One 
painting is of Minerva and Hercules opening 
the iron doors so Peace may enter with the 
olive branch. This was to commemorate the 
peace of 1648. It was in this room the first 
Peace Conference w^as held in 1899. The rug 



138 



Holland 

covering the floor was a gift from the Shah of 
Persia to Wilhemena at her marriage, and other 
gifts are in the palace, too, vases from China. 
A statue of her baby being carried to Heaven 
by the angels is very touching an beautiful. 

Another long, beautiful drive brought us to 
Scheveningen on the North Sea. The sea was 
breaking on the sandy shore. A few people 
were wading, but the day was too cold to make 
bathing comfortable. The beach is lined with 
tents and chairs. The drive thro' the old town 
delighted us. Heaps of children in wooden 
shoes, running, climbing fences, doing anything 
in those clumsy things— grown folks, too. These 
shoes cost sixty cents and never wear out— a 
good fashion, no breaking in new ones. 

We passed the Queen's palace in the city and 
her stables. They look much alike on the out- 
side. Tonight I went back and bought the tile- 
It is a woman carrying two buckets on a yoke, 
139 



Foreign Flashlights 



a boat with a tub of milk in it stands in the 
canal, a gate, some cows, a tile roof, etc. 

Just met a Jap in the hall on his way to the 
bath. He had on a dark kimona. The maid 
followed with his towels. I suppose he is a del- 
egate to the Peace Conference. 



BELGIUM. 
Antiverp. 

In driving from the station to the hotel at 
noon today, I saw in a shop window a lace ber- 
tha that I wanted, so we did not finish our din- 
ner, but skipped out to buy it. It was then or 
never, for we must "do" Antwerp in an hour. 

The real reason we stopped here was to see 
Rubens' "Descent from the Cross.'* The pic- 
ture was painted for the Order of St. Christo- 
pher, and its three divisions — for it is a trip- 
tych — each shows a Christ-bearer. On the left 
is the visit of the Virgin and Elizabeth before 

I4.0 



Christ's birth. At once you hear Mary saying, 
"My soul doth magnify the Lord." On the 
right is the Infant Jesus on a pillow, in the 
temple, carried by the old St. Simeon; and the 
thought, "Now lettest thou thy servant depart 
in peace, for mine eyes have beheld thy glory," 
is reflected in his countenance. In the central 
painting, those who love Christ are lifting His 
body from the cross. Like all of Rubens, the 
figures are too heavy. 

A better Christ is the head painted on marble 
by Leonardo da Vinci- There is no bust, and 
the beard hides the neck. The face is of warm 
flesh tints, and the dark blue eyes look deep 
into your heart. 

There is a carved English oak pulpit in this 
cathedral. It is an arbor, covered with vines 
and leaves ; and on the branches are many kinds 
of birds. These are the ones with whom St. 
Francis talked in his hermitage. There is a 
painting wAth -portraits of Luther, Erasmus 
141 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



and Calvin learning at the feet of Christ in this 
E Ornish church. It sets you to thinking. 



Brussels— July 11, 1907. 
It was quite like being in America to be 
driven thro' the streets of Brussels. They are 
wide and well paved— the buildings are modern 
—for the old ones were torn down within the 
last half century. All this takes from the 
quaintness, but not from our comfort in the 
hotel, for the elevator runs upon request, which 
i1: didn't do at The Hague. Our early walk 
revealed women sweeping and scrubbing the 
stores. We find women doing such work every- 
where, but we did not see them delivering news- 
papers as we have frequently. The morning was 
spent at the House of Justice— a structure 
larger than St. Peter's and with a much more 
imposing dome. That is because St. Peter's 
pupil- The HaU of Justice seems as useful as 
is hidden by the attic put on by Michelangelo's 

142 



Belgium 

a fisherman's silk hat. Very impressive architec- 
ture in the classic Greek, but more enjoyed in 
the possession than the use. The architect died 
insane— so did the painter, whose paintings we 
saw next at the Wiertz museum. It is an im- 
mense room holding the life work of a man who 
would not paint for money. The subjects are 
as unique in art as is Dante's Inferno in 
literature. There is a dog in a kennel that 
seems real and is only asleep, and a lady with 
a rosebud, but the others tho' well portray- 
ed, are gruesome. The modern museum is much 
pleasanter. There, Teniers' Kermisse niakes 
you glad. A bad dream called St. Anthonj^'s 
Temptation is more like the funny page of the 
Sunday newspaper in coloring and grotesque- 
ness than anything more serious. Rubens' Neg- 
ro Heads hang there. I wonder where he found 
his model, for we have not seen a negro, except 
one, who was imported from Congo, and walks 
about this hotel in bright red and buttons, to 
'43 



Foreign FlasKligHts 



add to the picturesqueness of the stained win- 
dowed and beveled mirrored rooms. As Rubens 
lived in Antwerp, and that is a shipping port, 
the negro model may have been found on an. 
African vessel. The Ascension of the Virgin 
by Rubens, we saw in the cathedral at Ant- 
werp and again at this gallery. The clear white 
light oi the gallery is better for the painting. 
It is viewed across a large balcony. 

We went to the town square, or the old forum, 
bounded with historic interest. The Hoted de 
Viile, or town hall, is still used tho' it is almost 
a century since the ''sound of revelry by ni^nt'' 
and it was several centuries old before that. 
The facade and spires are most exquisite in 
lacey effect with statues in every curve. Some 
fine tapestries are in the hall- A ceiling paint- 
ing is worth studying. It is the angel Gabriel 
who seems to turn shoulders, wings and bugte, 
and fly to meet you as you wialk around the 
edges of the immense room. 
144 



Belgium 

A drive thro' the park shows more splendia 
trees than are common with us. The w^ealthiest 
homes have a plain exterior, but every window 
in Brussels— even the poorest, has a fine lace 
curtain in it. The shop windows are more than 
enough to turn a woman's head. 

The church of St. Gudule is the home of an- 
other carved wooden pulpit— Adam and Eve 
being chased from Paradise by the angel with 
the flaming sword. The whole is a tree whose 
branches and leaves form the pulpit. Adam 
and Eve seem to be trying to find shelter from 
the angel under the pulpit— thus forming its 
support. 

Jiihj 12, 1907. 
Have just come in from the market. It fills 
all the pavement surrounding the Bourse of 
Commerce. There the women sit behind their 
piles of peas, carrots, potatoes, onions, aspara- 
gus (white as milk) egg-plant, currants, and 
145 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



cry their prices to everyone passing. It is the 
noisest market we have visited. On the side 
streets are the dogs resting under the carts 
that they have just pulled into the city. The 
loads are heavier than you would think possi- 
ble for a dog. We saw one big cart loaded with 
iron from a foundary, iron pieces that fitted 
each other so there was no waste room, and one 
large dog was whining under that load. Many 
people use two dogs, and we saw several teams 
of three abreast. 

AVe went to the Town Hall again for I wanted 
to get a better look at the house where Jean Val 
Jean was born from Hugo's brain. It is a brown 
stone, more impressive than many homes of 
writers, but there is no inscription to identify 
it. One window is used to display gymnasium 
devices and the other has a big paste-board par- 
rot in it. Food for thought! 



146 



Faris-^July 13, 1907. 
We arrived at the North Station at five 
o'clock. Everybody else was there, too, but we 
sat in a bus for comfort and safety and cringed 
at the thud of trunks falling on the top. A 
man with a trunk on his shoulder walked up a 
ladder to the top of the bus and then let the 
trunk drop. This happened eleven times, so 
we grew brave and each crash seemed less dan- 
gerous than the last. Then one horse pulled 
seven people and eleven trunks across the city. 
We peered thro' the openings betweenpeople 's 
heads and saw more people— all going some- 
where. I'm sure it would be fatal to stand 
still. The raised platforms around the street 
lamps look as if they were made for foot pas- 
sengers to change their minds, but we did not 
see any one doing it. The two story horse cars 
and motor cars caught our eye. 



147 



ForelB'n FlasKlig'Hts 



July 14, 1907. 

Our hotel is over a railroad station, but we 
would not know it so great are the distances. 
Did I tell you our hall is six hundred twelve 
feet long to the turn— and then half as long 
to the elevator, and then half way back to the 
dining room? We always have a good appe- 
tite. Really, a study in perspective is inter- 
esting. The figure becomes so small, that it is 
only by a sv^^agger or characteristic movement 
that we know our own husbands. We have a 
letter box on our door, a clock run by electric- 
ity stands on the mantel, and a telephone with 
no transmitter is on the wall— you just talk in 
any direction. 

But I should be telling of the cannon that 
fired at eight this morning when President 
Fallieres began reviewing his forty thousand 
troops, and of the Marsailles to which they came 
marching back to the city. We were at the 
Place de la Concord and T Avas looking at the 
148 



Paris 

obelisk and wondering how long it took those 
Egyptian slaves to chisel a butterfly, while 
Leonard was running a race with the President 
and his retinue. Leonard beat in the race, and 
stood still while all the great ones of this Re- 
public passed in his review. 

AVhen Leonard raced off to get ahead of the 
President, I played "pussy wants a corner" with 
the lamp-posts until I came to the Madeline- 
It is the style of architecture most to my lik- 
ing—if one beautiful thing can be more beauti- 
ful than another. There is so much dignity to 
the row of great columns that support the roof 
and seem to protect the walls. 

The Last Judgment in the architrave is very 
effective. On the altar is a marble group— four 
angels bearing to heaven the purified Mary 
Magdalene, for whom the church is named. It 
is very beautiful and unique as an altar piece. 
Above it is a frieze of figures. The interior is 
lighted by three bulPs eye windows in the roof 
149 



Foreign riasKlig'Kts 



giving a sombre, but white light. 

As I left the church and tried to forget the 
dozen, yes more— beggars, blind, lame, hungry 
and possibly one that was lazy for he looked 
able in every way— in trying to forget them, I 
wedged into a crowd of men and a few women 
to see what was of interest. And they were 
gambling. The proprietor had a little table 
with the figures from two to twelve on it and 
a pair of dice— and a fist full of coins, one franc 
or more in value. Then he and his customers 
guessed on the dice and the money was placed 
on the figures. Generally he gathered it in — 
a number of men would bet at once— but some- 
times he would pay one of the fellows. Within 
one block, I passed four of these groups. There 
was no demostration— just put up your money. 
Indeed, this is a very quiet holiday, no fire- 
crackers, but bands are playing at dift\.fent 
staftds and women are waltzing together in the 
streets. The buildings are floating blue, white 
150 



Paris 

and red flags, and many streets are festooned 
with colored ropes of paper. 

Mrs. Lewis, Virginia and I took a long ride 
this afternoon, after a failure to get in the 
Louvre because it is a special holiday. We went 
in a double decked motor and almost circled 
the city for twelve cents. 

Last night we took a drive along the Champs 
Elysees to the theatre, where every woman look- 
ed really like a fashion plate in coloring, hair, 
hat, gloves, shoes, stockings— every detail. Enor- 
mous hats with plumes that swept the should- 
ers. Mrs. Lewis and I were the only w^^men 
there without hats— in the whole audience the 
hats fully eighteen inches in diameter, were 
kept on. But they were far better to look at 
than the stage. The play was a vaudeville- 
much courser than I have ever seen in Chicago 
or New York; we left. It was a meeting place 
evidentaly, for the women promenaded alone, 
showing luxurious gowns with long trains, or 
151 



Foreig'n Flashlig'Kts 



chatted with friends. The drive to and from 
was like fairyland, with a whizzing auto to 
keep you from quite forgetting the realness of 
life. 

We saw an airship make a trip past our din- 
ing room window yesterday, and today we saw 
a balloon high in the blue; but no one seemed 
to be watching them. 

Yesterday we drove across the bridge of Al- 
exander III (a work of magnificent art) past 
art galleries, along the Champs Elysees, past 
the Napoleon arch of triumph to Versailles. Tne 
residence of the owner of the two largest storea 
is the only luxurious home on the way. For- 
ests flank the house on either side, and gardens, 
vases and statuary are artistically disposed on 
the green lawn in front of the large creamy 
white house. 

The gardens of Louis XIV are too beauti- 
ful to describe, with yew trees, fountain and 
statuary, and too large to enjoy. Even the 
152 



Paris 

eye grows weary of the perfectness of it all. The 
palaces are not to be compared with the Palace 
in the Woods at The Hague, but are more famil- 
iar because the very keyholes are saturated .v-ith 
history. We saw the little door thro' which 
Louis XVI and Marie Antoniette made their es- 
cape, while the Swiss guards died at their post. 
This is not the place of the great massacre, which 
was at the Tuilleries, where the king and queen 
did not escape. 

The brass lock on the chapel door made by 
hand by Louis XVI, made the king seem more 
human than before. I had never thought of 
him as a locksmith- I cannot think of him and 
his fair wife without sorrow for such vfuef 
times. And the much bewigged and high heel- 
ed grandfather was the cause of it all. We 
went thro' room after room where his portrait 
has the central place. By his bedside is a pro- 
file of him, with his scornful, cruel mouth and 
wicked eye. He called himself God of the Sun, 

153 



Foreign Flashlights 



and one portrait so represented him. A unique 
clock was another proof of his vanity. At the 
hour, his image on horseback rode out of the 
center; clouds separated above him and he was 
crowned by the sun emerging from these clouds. 
It is all in gold. 

We look out upon the balcony where the 
young king and queen and Lafayette tried to 
appease the people. It all seemed very real— 
especially when standing beside the very bed 
upon which those best known in history laid 
their tired heads and unwearied bodies. I 
guess that does not apply to all, for the Little 
Corporal might have been physically weary af- 
ter so many hours on the field. "Tlis bed is 
a narrow short one, but large enough, of 
course. 

There is a long hall of queer statuary— tall, 
very slender people of the time of Charle- 
mange— almost as thin as the Egyptians. But 
the grounds are the most beautiful. The coach 

154 



Paris 

house contains a partial history of France. 
The sedan chairs of the queens, and the gilt 
coaches used for Napoleon's ascent into glory 
—even a special one for his divorce, (which 
was not so glorious), and another for the 
christening of the King of Rome. Such mas- 
sive elegance that eight horses are required to 
pull them. 

The drive home brought us past a high plain 
wall, protecting a yard and house. On the wall 
was a bust of Victor Hugo. After we reached 
Paris, we drove by the Eifel Tower- Its height 
i?; more than I could tl ink. The church steeples 
look less than half r.s high. It is about one 
thousand feet. 



Tuesday. 

Yesterday was given over to another carriage 

drive, thro' a park alive with children, to Notre 

Dame where we saw the queer figures on the 

doors of Adam and Eve, etc., and the rose win- 



155 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



clows that Dante has pictured in his Paradiso- 
To realize the centuries of history that have 
echoed around that early land-mark is to know 
France. Then we went to the Vendome, which, 
like Trajan's column; it seems to tell only one 
tale— Napoleon's ambition. We visited his 
tomb and found the beautiful chapel thronged 
with people who came from admiration or his- 
torical interest. The? canopied altar 'is like 
the one at St. Peter's, but is so much better 
placed that it is far more beautiful. The light 
thro' yellow glass falls upon the great twisted 
columns and gives them a golden glow. 

Opposite Napoleon's tomb, across a little park, 
is a monument to Pasteur, whose honest studj'' 
has saved so many lives. It is a simple statue 
out in the broad white sunlight, as science must 

Passing the Eifel Tower to the Trocadero Pal- 
ace, (which must have suggested Festival Hall 
hall, are very similar,) we found persons re- 
hearsing' in the hall and were told that talented 



t56 



P aria 

men and women donate their efforts at this aud- 
itorium and the money raised is always used 
for charity. A hydraulic elevator took us up 
to the top of the tower, and from the top, we 
looked upon a statue of Washington and an- 
other of Franklin, and the Eifel tower just 
over the way seemed higher than ever. 

We passed the salon where art exhibits are 
held and the fame of our countrymen is won 
—or not, and then came to the obelisk on the 
Place de la Concord which marks the sad fate 
of Louis XVI and his beautiful Marie Antoin- 
ette, and many hundred others. The obelisk 
was placed there because it had no political 
significance— perhaps because it keeps those 
who stop to read, guessing what Rameses was 
trying to tell. Female statues representing the 
French cities, are placed in a circle around the 
obelisk. The city of Strassburg is draped with 
flowers as the grave might be, and has been since 
1870, when it was lost and ceded to Germany. 
157 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



Spaking of graves, we visited the tomb of 
Abelard and Heloise at the Pere la Chaise. 
There were flowers recently placed at their 
feet by some one disappointed in love. A beauti- 
ful monument to all who have gone before has a 
place in the cemetery. The tomb of President 
Faure has no pronounced characteristic in this 
Republican France— much as the people loved 
him. 

A memory that will not fade is of the even- 
ing at the Grand Opera house. All are famil- 
iar with pictuhes of that magnificent stairway, 
but the mosaic floors, and the gorgeous ceiling 
of exquisite mosaic and framed in bronze stat- 
uary, must be seen to be known; and the opera 
was as beautiful as its setting. Virginia told us 
before leaving America that she was going to 
take us to this most famous hall. Just as if 
she were not taking us everyplace ? The first act 
"•^^as the prologue to the opera of Catalana. In 
the foreground was a thatched roof supported 
158 



P aris 



by four posts. In the background, the Jun?:- 
faii and another snow peak reflected the glow 
of the setting sun. A man in mountain skins 
walked over the mountain singing— the twi- 
light came down, the evening star twinkled 
and then another, then several, then many peep- 
ed thro' the deep purple. The man lay on his 
bed of straw and sang himself to sleep, while 
the voice he was dreaming of joined, and car- 
ried on the melody. The curtain fell on this 
exquisite pastoral. The opera Catalana is laid 
in the Sierra Madras. The costumes, of course, 
were Spanish. A village washing scene inter- 
rupted by the characteristic Spanish dance 
could not have been prettier. Truly it was a 
gala night. Leonard and I walked to the Palais 
D'Orsay to take a peep at Paris at midnight. 
Even at that hour the taximetres and other 
carriages were passing as constantly as in the 
daytime, and the street tables and chairs were 
ci'owded with people- ]\Iusic was playing every- 



159 



Foreign FlasKli^Hts 



where. At one place, it was made by a man 
I'ubbing tumblers of water, making four tones 
at one time. He was accompanied by a banjo. 
This morning we went to the shops— the 
Louvi-e and the Bon Marche. They did not 
turn our heads, strange to say. After lunch, 
Virginia and I strolled thro' the Louvre Musee. 
That was a joy! Of course, the familiar sub- 
jects were the greatest pleasure, but the Mar- 
riage of St. Catherine by Fra Bartholemmeo 
i? of the richest coloring. The Source and The 
Sphinx by Domanique are fine. I wondered 
whether Mr. Van Dyke knew the painting be- 
fore he wrote his Blue Flower, for there is an 
exquisite blue flower in the painting, and The 
Source is to me his choicest writing. More 
probabty both painting and story are from the 
Brahmin legend. The Rubens room devoted to 
the life story of Marie de Medici is a delight- 
ful way to read history. The pictures illustrate 
her life from the three Fates spinning the 
1 60 



Paria 



widowhood and regency, and departure to 
threads thro' her courtship and marriage with 
Henry IV, to the birth of Louis XIII, her 
Heaven where she joins her husband. 
We have not yet found the Venus de 
Milo. It was an endless jaunt thro' rooms full 
of other Venuses. We found them from every 
clime and in every graceful attitude. I was 
sure we would not find her in such company; 
and at last, after walking thro' all the aristroc- 
racy of mythology, we found her standing at 
the end of the corridor, with all the others to do 
her homage. Yes, she is beautiful— and more; 
her face is full of goodness— an honest, thought- 
ful expression that commands your love and 
admiration. 



London-July 17, 1907. 
A pleasant ride thro' northeastern France to 
Boulogne (a quaint city of forty thousand), a 
smooth passage across the English channel, a 
i6i 



Foreig'n FlasKligHts 



beautiful trip across the hedge bordered fields 
from Folkstone, with poppies everywhere, and 
we were in London. As soon as our faces were 
washed, we left the hotel, the Holborn Via- 
duct, climbed to the top of a bus and grinned 
at ourselves all the way to Piccadilly. It was 
a queer feeling to be on the top of a high bus 
and ride along on a level with the restaurant 
awnings. The horses that pulled us looked sleek 
and fat and contented, so I tried to think the 
load couldn't be as heavy as it looked. Eigh- 
teen passengers could ride on the top and as 
many inside, so there must be some pulling. 
Added to this are myriads of soap and food 
and health signs that so cover the bus that to 
find the name of it takes a practiced eye. As 
we rode along, we saw carts of bananas— the 
first since leaving America. How the banana 
cart and bycicle boy keeps from being upset 
is a mystery in these crowded streets; for the 
buses and cabs form an endless stream. We 
162 



L.ondon 



tried for a long time to cross the street and 
iinally walked between the wheels and under 
the seat of the driver of a high cab. We have 
not seen street cars; but have seen sub-stair- 
ways going to them, I suppose. Similar stair- 
ways going to the earth below are marked "Lav- 
atories, certainly a great improvement over the 
continental method. 

An interesting novelty about our room is the 
door bolt, which is opened by touching a but- 
ton from the bed. This is to admit the maid 
with the breakfast, I suppose. An old chest 
of drawers in the room proves to be a writing 
desk when you touch the button. The ward- 
robe is half chest of drawers— so nothing is as 
it seems. The clock does not run by electricity 
as it did in Paris, and as I have not started it, 
it points always to half past three. Our wash- 
stand is of tile illustrating Aesop's fables— 
the lion and the mouse, the dog and his shad- 
ow, the fox and the grapes, the fox dines with 
163 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



the stork, and so on. 

The drive this morning took us thro' many, 
many crowded streets and across the Thames 
to the Tower of London. The sun was shin- 
ing and dispelled the gloom associated with 
it— tho' tablets marked the place of the execu- 
tion ot Anne Boleyn, Katherine Howard and 
Lady Jane Grey. But just there in the open 
place, the Scotch pipers were playing and we 
turned our backs on the names of the dead 
({ueens to look at the picturesque costume and 
peculiar instruments of the Scotchman. And we 
were not the only auditors— two great, black 
crows gave the music every attention, and a 
peacock had only his train to distract him as 
he strolled along. 

In the Tower, we saw room after room of 
armour and bayonets— some of gold with fine 
tracery arranged in design, like the passion 
flower, or the sun. Wlien we entered the lOom 
where the king's crown is kept, we roused as 
164 



hondon 



from a dream and looked with all our might 
It is of diamonds with a ruby and sapphu-e set 
m the front. The sapphire belonged to Ed- 
ward the Confessor, and the ruby, which is 
more than an inch the longest diameter, was 
presented by Peter of Spain. The queen s crown 
and several others, is in the same enclosure. 
There is a baptismal font, a wine fountain 
tankards, innumerable salt jars, jeweled sword 
mid scepier, all made of gold arranged around 
the crown. A very <iueer mixture of purposes! 
Then we went to St. Paul's Cathedral-the 
monument to Christopher Wren, as his tab- 
let states. The interest of the church is m 
the noble deed, whose memorials are here— 
Ihe Duke of Wellington, Admiral Nelson, Sir 
Joshua Reynolds, Sir Edward Leighton, Sir 
Edward Bulwer Lyton, John MiUais and J. 
W Turner. And strange to every American 
-an eulogistic memorial tablet to Major Andre. 
This church too. stands on the site of a Roman 

165 



Foreign FlasKligHts 



Temple. 

We stood on the steps of the National Gal- 
lery and looked down on Trafalgar Square— 
a plait of green studded with a high monolith, 
with Nelson o'er-topping it. It is well that 
we went thro' the gallery while we were fresh, 
(for pictures must be sipped at ease as a Ger- 
man drinks beer— not swallowed at one draught 
as we Americans drink everything). The guide 
shows us the most famous pictures and we lose 
no time hunting them. This afternoon the Sir 
Edward Leighton paintings were the best. Dig- 
nity and Impudence, and Shoeing the Mare are 
almost as good as Potter's Bull— but not quite. 
Then see Joshua Reynold's Innocence!— oh, so 
many beautiful ones! Life is not long enough 
'to enjoy all the good things about us. We 
left the gallery too weaary for anything but 
a drive, and we really nodded with the comfort 
of it as we drove on Rotten Row, thro' Hyde 
Park and Kensington Gardens- But the hand- 
i66 



London 

some equigapes and handsomer attires roused 
us and presently we came to the Albert Memor- 
ial. That is too fine to miss. The great bronze 
statue of the Prince Consort is canopied and 
supported by pedestal bordered with life-size 
ligures of men of worth, in high relief around 
iL. Homer has tiie central place in the front, 
Kaphael on the Prince's left and Michaelangelo 
on his right. All the intervening space is fill- 
ed with this galaxy of portraits. Science is not 
forgotten— nor mechanics and engineering— as 
if the heart and mind of the Prince were great 
enough to value them all. 

Another drive further along in Hyde Park 
brought us to a flowered enclosure, which is a 
burial ground for dogs and cats. There are 
several hundred graves, each marked with a 
stone. This is one: 

"To dear little Josie, 

In loving gratitude for his sweei:. affection. 
Until we meet again. 
167 



Foreign Flashlightd 



April, 1889 -November, 1895." 

(There are no surnames.) 

Our drive home brought us around the cor- 
ner of Dickens' Old Curiosity Shop. We en- 
tered and saw the source of his inspiration. 
The windows are full of his characters illus- 
trated by Cruikshank, whose tomb we saw at 
St. Paul's; and pictures with extracts are sold 
in the inner room. I peeked thro' a six-inch 
hole in the wall and saw two women sitting on 
great bags of paper sorting rags — for the 
premises are used for old paper now. 

We prepared for lunch immediately upon 
our return to the hotel, but before the hooks 
were fastened up the back, Virginia came in 
—a vision of freshness in her pink ribbon waist 
and a carnation in her hair, and placing one 
like it in mine, said she had tickets for 
Lohengrin. Such a treat as it was! The stag- 
ing was very pretty and the acting good. The 
voices were not so good as the singers in Paris, 
i68 



London 



Yenice and Rome. We had the best of seats 
to enjoy it. As in Paris, women were in charge 
of the seats and tickets. Between the acts, 
these maids brought in small bricks of ice- 
cream, pots of tea, and glasses of lemonade. They 
serve nothing free as our boys carry water. Even 
the program full of advertisements costs six 
pence. 

Juhj 18, 1907. 

We have been to the Tate gallery this a. m. 
It contains modern paintings, which I must 
say are more interesting on the whole than the 
ancient ones, tho' the coloring is not so rich. 

Next to Westminster Abbey, which is imbued 
with holiness. To stand within walls erected 
in 1066 and still serving as a house of God, 
makes us think. Edward the Confessor, the 
good Queen Eleanor, who sucked her hus- 
band's poisonous wound and for whom Char- 
ing Cross and the other Crosses are named, 
169 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



Margaret, the good wife of Henry VII, whose 
charity of bread and money is handed out tt. 
the poor every week even to this day— these ana 
hundreds of others, whose tombs are here, 
crowd the mind with a host of penned por- 
traits that cover centuries. Then there are the 
poets whose songs have wakened so many chords 
of harmony. And when the body could not 
be brought here, there is a tablet or bust that 
brings the singer to the passer's mind. 'Twa? 
so I saw a marble portrait of Shakespeare and 
of Wordsworth, also our own loved Longfel- 
low. And there are the statesmen — Disraeli, 
Gladstone, and the actors, Garrick, Mrs. Sid- 
dons, Irving; and the singer, Jennie Lind Gold- 
smith. And, too, the leaders in the field of 
science, Herschel and Darwin lie side by side in 
that company of illustrious dead- The coro- 
nation chapel, and the chair containing the 
Stone of Scone point ito the stability of this 
government, for every English ruler has been 

170 



London 

crowned here since William the Conqueror. 
What other nation can show such a record ! 

This afternoon we drove to the Wallace mus- 
eum—a mansion familiar to us as the Gaunt 
house in Thackery's Vanity Fair. The collec- 
tion of armor, furniture and paintings is very 
beautiful. There is a large collection of minia- 
tures and wax portraits. We saw a life-size 
wax portrait of Louis XIV at Versailles, but 
here we saw hundreds of miniature partraits 
in wax, still more painted on ivory. The King 
of Rome is a popular subject— a blue-eyed, 
flaxen haired boy of four or five years. 

The British Musei^m came next. We walked 
thro' the Elgin maibles and the mausoleum 
made for Mausolus, whose name gave origin to 
the word. The fragments of it are so immense, 
I do not marvel that it was considered one of 
the seven wonders. One of the pillars fills the 
height of a great hill. We passed the Assyrian 
bas-reliefs and brick documents, and the Egyp- 

171 



Foreign FlasHligKts 



tian giants in stone and came to the Rosetta 
stone, which was ceded to England by France 
in 1802. It explains itself. There are three 
paragraphs of different writing, but the same 
thought. The first is the heiroglyphics of 
the priests found on the obelisks and other 
monuments, and unintelligible until about a 
century ago. The second paragraph is the 
writing of the people, and the third is in the 
Greek language, and solved the others. After 
we had looked at the prehistoric man whose 
past is said to be about 7000 B. C— a blonde 
with the hair on the scalp, skin covering the 
bones, and there are vessels in the stone cofiin 
— after seeing him and the mummy who was a 
priestess and is still consulted by people in Lon- 
don today, and the mummy of Cleopatra, we are 
ready to come to the hotel and have a good 
rest. That museum crowds history and geog- 
raphy so thick that you feel that it was a waste 
of time to go any place else. Our own Ameri- 
172 



I^ondon 

can Indian was represented and the Esqui- 
maux and the African- But I liked them bet- 
ter alive at St. Louis. A fetish, not seen in 
St. Louis was covered to the very eyes, nose and 
mouth with knives and nails that had been 
driven in by a credulous people to learn how 
some mighty question would be settled. 

Dwight invited us to spend the afternoon at 
Windsor Castle— the castle by the winding 
shore. The castle is at the station, or rather 
the station is across the street from the castle, 
so 'twas easy to walk about. The Albert ChtT^*- 
el was our first stop. It is a cheery tomb for 
Edward's elder son. The mosaics and bas-re- 
lief portrait of the Royal Family give it an 
individuality of its own. The State Apart- 
ments where the royal guests are entertained, 
are very magnificent, but nothing is as ex- 
quisite as the Hague Palace in the Woods. The 
paintings are better— the Holy Family by Ru- 
bens, I liked better than others I have seen by 
173 



Foreign riasHli§jHts 



liim. (But Murillo is the man that could paint 
Madonnas.) The dining table is one hundred 
fifty feet long, and the rug under it is woven in 
one piece— the largest rug in the world. The 
castle is so large, only a distant view could take 
it all in, but looking at it across the Thames 
makes a picture not to be forgotten. 

On our return we changed cars at Slough 
where Charles Turner produced the crimson 
rambler. The railroad is bordered with luxu- 
rant flowers in the care of this nusery, making 
the trip all the more beautiful. 

Arrived at Paddington, we hunted the famous 
two-penny tube and were surprised to be low- 
ered in a great car instead of walking down as 
we do in America. A very few minutes ride 
underground and we had left the tube coaches 
and were lifted to the street near our hotel. As 
I sat here tonight I heard the Scotch pipers 
pass. I ran to the window— there were two 
bands with a company between, and a bycicle 
•■ji74 



London 

brigade with guns fastened to the wheels; and 
bringing up the rear, were the stretcher bear- 
ers. 



Sunday— 9 p. m. 

At this instant I do feel that this has been a 
day of rest, for we have just come from a Iruir- 
less trip to Westminster Abbey. The church 
was closed. We started out to St. Paul's bu- 
that church is so large, we could not hear one 
word of the service— tho' I knew what every 
word should be— so we left for Westminstb , 
AVe walked from Charing Cross as the police- 
man said it was near. I was glad we did, for 
there was more time to picture Queen Eleanor 
on her last journey from Charing Cross to the 
Abbey, 

This morning we heard Dr. Campbell, just 

two blocks down. He is a spiritual man and 

preached a beautiful universalist sermon. The 

choir, in black cap and blue gown, sang ]\Io- 

175 



Foreig'n riasKlig'Hts 



zart's Twelfth Mass. The City Temple, as the 
church is called, seems very small compared 
with the Chicago auditorium. 

This afternoon, we walked thro' Petticoat 
Lane— after taking two buses to reach it. The 
petticoated portion did not predominate as we 
have found at all markets. There were men, 
and they were selling every article imaginable, 
from tinware to lace, all uot in the street, from 
a cart or under a propped up tarpaulin, or 
even sitting flat on the pavement, as we saw 
a man selling two pairs of large scissors for a 
six pence. 

This is the only violation of the Sabbath we 
have seen here. I wonder where people eat 
v\rho depend upon restaurants. Business places 
are closed and the steel curtains drawn down 
hiding their goods, except a few cigar stores— 
and oh, yes! a few clothing windows. I saw a 
suit marked $15-75- the first dollar sign I have 
seen since May 17th. But no two cities could 

176 



Dirtnin^Kam 



be more unlike than London and Paris. People 
are out riding on the bus tops, or riding in the 
tube; but there are no tables on the walk in- 
viting refreshments. There is none of the mer- 
ry making from sitting over a social glass and 
hearing music. The only music we hear from our 
window, (or any where else) is the constant 
clatter of horses feet on the asphalt, the whir 
of auto buses frequently, and the chimes of the 
church bells every hour. 

Birmingham— July 23, 1907. 

I did not write about yesterday because we 
only went shopping and found almost nothing 
that we could not resist. Leonard limited his 
purchases to three sets of postals at a penny 
a dozen. They have not a gold bevel. 

This morning we left London for Oxford. 
At Reading, where the train halted for five 
minutes, a black water-spaniel came to the car 
door. He had a tin box fastened over his 
shoulders. It was labeled ''Bob. For Widows 



177 



Foreig'n FlasHli^Kts 



and Orphans." A slot in the box proved hib 
profession. He stood mere and begged and 
Avith the chinch of each penny, in the tin box, 
he wagged his tail in gratitude. There were 
lots of pennies. Everybody enjoyed giving. 

Arrived at Oxford, we mounted a iiigh wagon 
and drove to Christ Church College, where Ed- 
ward VII was educated. Our guide was a 
character worthy a pen portrait- A symphony 
in grey, in age, costume and historic setting. 
His hair parted front and back, grey stiff hat, 
and " doncherknow " punctuating every clause. 
He took us to the chapel where Burne Jones' 
windows prove that there is beauty in his art 
Avhen in painted windows. Then we went to 
the great dining room copied at Chicago Uni- 
versity. Portraits of great men and of a few 
women line the Avails. The writer of Alice in 
Wonderland hangs opposite John Wesley at the 
entrance. Earthly dreams and heavenly visions. 

Our guide told us of Tom Tower as we stood 
178 



London 



in the quadrangle looking at the pond of water 
lilies. Just then Tom struck twelve and the 
man sang the college rhyme with the bells. Then 
we went to Magdalene with its beautiful ivied 
tower and handsome flowers. The grass and 
flowers are the freshness and beauty of every- 
thing. The buildings are very weatherworn. 
Addison's walk, following the water walk, is 
the most beautiful spot, such gigantic old trees 
with mossy bark and vine entwined! And 
a large herd of spotted deer! How could any 
country be more beautiful! 

At Stratford, another high wagon took us to 
Shakespeare's house. Surely the very timbers 
are rich with association! Each room was 
shown by a lady or gentleman who seemed to 
love the task. The plainness of the home, so 
solid, honest and genuine, seems a good setting 
for so great a soul. The church where he lies 
is in a yard beautiful with old trees and sacred 
with grave stones. The boy choir were singing 
179 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



very sweetly in the vesper service. It was good 
to be there. The plain floor slab that marks 
his grave is the most unpretentious in all 
Europe, but it has done him good service. 
"Good frend for Jesus sake forbeare 
To digg the dust encloased heare: 
Blest be ye yt spares these stones 
And curst be ye yt moves my bones-" 
On the way back, we passed the home of 
Marie Corelli which is a two-story square 
house with boxes of flowers in every window, 
and vines covering the walls. 



Birmingham— July 24, 1907. 
A four horse coach too us for an hour's drive 
this morning, passing some very comfortable 
old houses— plain walls, dooryards, no porches, 
but many vines clambering over the walls. The 
driver told us of the different factories as we 
passed them— for Birmingham is a city of fac- 
tories. We left in a very comfortable car about 
i8o 



Birmin^Haxn 



10 :30 ; and spent eight hours looking out of the 
windows at the freshest of greenness all the 
way to Edinburgh. All lower England is bor- 
dered with hedges, but stone walls replace them 
farther northward. Sheep are abundant in this 
more hilly northern land. We were puzzled by 
circular fences of stone, perhaps one hundred 
feet in. diameter. 'Twas Virginia's happy 
thought that these are sheep folds. There are 
fields of hay but no corn. The black Aberdeen 
Angus cattle are grazing here and drinking 
from the clear streams. 

Arrived at Edinburgh, we walked up a long 
flight of steps to the bridge that crossed the 
tracks and into the hotel. As the elevator was 
full, we walked up the hotel steps to our rooms, 
up and up and up. We walked nine flights 
before we reached it. Then we came down foui* 
flights to dinner. What was our surprise to 
find that on a level with the main streets! We 
walked out after dinner, and several times came 
i8i 



Foreig'n FlasKlig'Kts 



to places where we could look down on other 
streets whose five storied house-tops Avere on a 
level with us. It is cold here. We wear ail 
we have. At half after nine p. m., we can read the 
daily paper. 

This is the grey stone city- We have seen 
no other coloring except the pure white statue 
of Sir Walter Scott, who sits under a pinacle 
supported by eight giant pillars. It is a very 
significant monument, the simple, noble figure 
nnd the elaborate arched canopy, that looks as 
if tlie people could not honor him enough. The 
park surrounding the monument is a beauti- 
ful harmony of grass and flowers. It forms 
a border for Princess Street for a good many 
blocks. On the other side are all kinds of shops 
— dresses, steamer rugs in all the plaids of the 
different clans, and decorated china from the 
various manufactories. So both sides are bright 
with color. The Kilties in their artistic costume, 
are a common sight during the day. 
182 



BirmingKam 



We drove thro' the street to the castle, and 
went into the tiny bedroom of Mary, Queen of 
Scotts, where JamesI was born, and lowered in 
a basket from the window to be cared for at 
Stirling Castle. We entered the tiny chapel of 
St. Margaret with its five tinier windows. At 
Holyrood, it seemed more like the home of a 
queen, tho' that, too, is bare. The Queen's bed 
is in rags, but tells of better days. Her pri- 
vate stairs are still barred to the public, but a 
big sign is on the door in her bedroom and an- 
other at the foot of the stairs in the room below. 
The ruin of the Holyrood chapel is like a dead 
language. Very different from St. Giles which 
is fiill of religious zeal. The guide there told 
us the story of John Knox and his prayer book, 
of Janet Geddes throwing her stool at his suc- 
cessor; of the Catholic, Anglican and Presby- 
terian ministeries in this house of God. He 
was a dear old man. He loved every pew in 
it— had gone there since he was a little boy. 
183 



Foreign Flashli^Hts 



A short drive, passing the home of John Knox, 
and then up to the observatory tower; where 
we stepped out of the carriage and walked 
around the creast of the hill. A view of city, 
Nelson tower with the ball on its top that rises 
on a rod and falls to the tower top every day 
at one o'clock. A cannon fires and every one 
adjusts his watch. 

A spare moment took us back to the Scott mon- 
ument to get another look at the pure, good face, 
Then across the street to buy a wedgewood tea- 
pot for a souvenir of this tea-drinking is..«*nd. 
Glasgow— July 26, 1907. 

AVe eat breakfast with the party for the last 
time tomorrow. It has been a pleasure every 
day. This last one has been spent coming thro* 
the Trossachs, or rugged way. Thro' the pen of 
Sir Walter Scott, this lake region is rich with 
association. At Aberfoyle we took a coach and 
galloped the horses seven miles up hill, and down 
dale barren of all but heather and brake until 
184 



BirmingHatn 



we reached the banks of the beautiful Loch 
Achray, and on passed Ben Ledi and the peak 
where Roderick conquered the mighty Fitz- 
james in single combat— on to Lake Katrine, 
where a little steamer carried us around Ellen's 
Isle. The water is like another earth and sky 
—so still it is. Then another coach ride thro' 
forest covered glens and we are at Inversnaid, 
where a cascade, making music, falls into Lock 
Lomond. This lake is as beautiful as Lucerne. 
What could I say more? A bevy of gulls fol- 
lowed our steamboat the entire twenty miles. 
Leonard and Dwight threw pieces of bread 
high in the air, and the birds nearly always 
caught them before they reached the water. 
That was great fun! 

At Glasgow our conductor met us with a 
coach and took us for an hour's drive about 
the city. It is not grey like Edinburgh, but has 
the British characteristic of chimney pots. That 
is a very peculiar sight— from seven to thir- 
185 



Foreig'n FlasHligHts 



teen tiles on the top of a single chimney. It 
may be because the fire place is universal here, 
and each grate has a separate flue. We can 
lind no other explanation- There are miles and 
miles of shop windows full of hats and dresses, 
miles more of stone dwellings, many of them 
apartment houses, with leaded glass window\ 
The University and Music school are handsome- 
buildings. Then on and on we went to th*' 
Necropolis high on the hill, and marked with 
many high grave stones. Just in front of it is 
the Roman Cathedral which is now used by the 
Scotch Presbyterians. 

Saturday, July 27, 1907. 
Leonard and I have had a chase this morning 
buying a traveling rug. I wanted the prettiest 
in Glasgow, and Leonard Avanted the best, so 
we looked at several hundred, and finally bought 
a Douglas- Wallace Tartan because it is the best 
in wool and weight and name. The McGreegors 
are prettier, but I'm afraid McGreegor didn't 
i86 



Birtnin^Kam 



have the fame of Wallace. 

At lunch D wight said he had tickets to Ayr 
— an hour's ride along the Irish sea. What a 
surprise to liud a thriving city, and street cars 
lo take us to the Burns monument! Then wc 
v/alked a little way to the Brig O'Doon and 
back to Alloway Kirk which looks spooky enougii 
in the daylight, with its roof off and a blank 
hole for a door. We walked back along the well 
beaten path to the Burns cottage. It is a whir:- 
Yvash>id, three room cabin with thatched roof- 
The grass of the roof is at least fourteen inches 
thick. The floor is of rough stone. There are 
three openings an inch or two wide, like slus 
in the wall, that serve for windows in the room 
v.'here Robert Burns was born. The next and 
middle room is the stable with six stalls in it; 
and beyond is the kitchen with fire-place and 
crane, and a cupboard bed in the opposite wall. 

Of course, I had to buy a Tarn O'Shanter in 
Ayr, and was fortunate in finding one just 
187 



Foreign FlasKli^Hts 



across from the ale shop Tarn loved so well. A 
statue of him and of his jovial friend, Souter 
Johnnie, was carved by a self taught sculptor. 
Vv'ho was a friend of Burns, and these two jolly 
heads adorn the front of the shop where drinks 
are still sold. A picture of the witch pulling 
off Meg's leg is painted between them. The 
places associated with Burns are all kept in beau- 
tiful condition- Ilis monument is the centre of 
an exsuisite landscape garden, where all the 
flowers he loved so well bloom in profusion. In 
the monument room are the Bible he gave to 
Highland Mary, and tAvo goblets he gave to 
Clardinda. As we stood on Brig o'Doon, Ave 
looked down into a garden where music and peo- 
ple w^ere enjoying each other— andstrawberries 
and cream, to boot. 

In the town, is a statue of Burns with four 

illustrations of his poems in high relief on the 

pedestal— Tam O'Shanter and the witch with 

Meg's tail. The Cotter's Saturday Night, High- 

i8S 



land Mary, and a Soldier's Story. 

On our way back to Glasgow, we decided to 
leave for Liverpool tomorrow— Sunday. What 
was our surprise to find that there are no Sun- 
day trains. 



Glasgow— Juhj 28, 1907. 

This is a Presbyterian Sabbath. I am looR- 
ing into the train shed from this table. Eight 
lines of coaches have been standing there vM 
day. Not a person can be seen or heard— There ! 
I never said anything yet but someone cor- 
rected me! This time it was a boy emptying 
garbage out of a wheel-barrow into a hole made 
by a trap door in the station pavement. But 
he is gone before I can tell it. 

We went to the Cathedral this morning. The 
seats were full of worshipers. The music was 
rarely beautiful. We had no programs, so I 
could not learn of the composers; but the Te 
Deum Laudamus was beautifull arranged and 
189 



Foreign Flashlights 



well sung. The collection was received in a 
velvet bag with a narrow slit in it. In London, 
they used a box wdth a slit in it. It looks over 
cautious. The two ministers wore black gowns 
wdth purple drapery down the back and the 
preacher had swan's dow^n on his shoulders. He 
read the banns for Joseph Brown and Harriet 
Blank— the first reading. 

The church is Presbyterian, but unlike ours 
in the Middle West. I could not understand the 
English, so studied the aarchitecture and col- 
ored windows. I am glad I had the time for 
they are sermons. One was an African with a 
baby on her back, another at the side, and the 
hand outstretched like a beggar. That is a good 
missionary window 

One hymn that was sung seemed especially 
beautiful, "Be still, my Soul.*' The organist 
and instrument w^ere in perfect harmony. There 
was a very well trained chorus choir and the 
tenor soloist has a rare voice. The choir loft 



190 



Glasgo"W 

is in the gallery opposite the pulpit and lecturn. 
The pews are on all sides of the square where 
and two ministers sit on each side of the lec- 
turn. 

In the afternoon, I walked out to see St. 
George's square more. The children were play- 
ing tag around the heels of Queen Victoria's 
equestrian statue, and in the very shadow of 
James Watts and Sir Walter Scott. 



Liverpool— July 30, 1907. 
A day of rain and sunshine on the train 
yesterday brought us over beautiful hills and 
valleys, but passing Tory few farmhouses to this 
busy city. After wo v/ere comfortably lodged 
at the Adelphi, we started out to buy a thistle 
table-cloth as a souvenir of Scotland. That took 
us into many good stores and a few poor ones 
—for the thistle is not a common pattern. A 
sales man answered our querry ''At what hour 
is the store open in the morning?" with ''Those 
191 



Foreig'n FlasKli^Kts 



that 'live in' are here at 8:30. The shop must 
be scrubbed. It is open for customers at 9:00. 
I wish I didn't live in" When we inquired 
further he said he and the other employees eat 
and sleep in the building. He receives six hun- 
dred shillings and lis living a year. It seems 
very little. Scarcely twelve dollars a month. 

This morning we four, Dmght, Virginia, 
Leonard and I started off for a day in Chester. 
And what a satisfactory day it was ! We went 
thro' the East gate with the Victoria Jubilee 
clock above it, on down Watergate street to 
find the oldest house. We thought each one must 
be it, but were sure of it when we came to the 
one with *' God's Providence is mine inheri- 
tance." carved into the great beam that reached 
across the front of the house. Another house 
motto is *'The fear of the Lord is the fountain 
of Life." 

We walked around the old Roman Wall and 
exclaimed every step as we looked down upon 

192 



the beautiful gardens, or read quaint inn signs 
—one read, "AVe cater to beds," another is the 
sign of the bear. The river Dee reflects sun- 
shine as it tumbles thro' the race of the mill. 
Just beyond it is Eaton Hall— the home of the 
Duke of Westminster. 

The cathedral was very satisfying. Roaming 
around and reading the tablets here and there. 
It was in so doing, we found the name of Wil- 
liam Makepeace Thackery and his wife direct- 
ly in the aisle. We first had passed it by (so 
modest it is) being so taken with heroic mosaics 
of Abraham, Moses, David and Elijah. 

But the best of Chester is the up and down 
stairs streets. We walked up the downstairs 
streets, and down the upstairs streets, and the 
pleasure never grew less. We were all hunt- 
ing a AVedgewood tea-pot which Virginia want- 
ed for a souvenir, and found numberless an- 
tique shops. Leonard artlessly called one sec- 
ond hand, but the saleswoman said ''Not second 
193 



Foreign FlasHligHts 



jiist priced a broken tea-pot, creamer, bowl and 
four cups and saucers (all mended ware) being 
packed, having been sold for $75. We found 
that Wedgewood was not limited to the cameo 
ware we were familiar with. We saw lots of 
black, some brown or terra cotta, countless gaily 
flowered pieces, and at last a few of the blue and 
Avhite, which all the merchants sadly alluded to 
as *'only modern." Age is at a premium here. 
The tea signs tempted us, and twice we stop- 
ped at quaint places to drink a cup and eat a 
delicious hot toasted tea cake, and mammoth 
strawberries with rich yellow cream. 



August 1 , 1907. 
Not yet eye weary, the last afternoon was 
spent in the Walker Museum. Except one room, 
the paintings are modern. In the entrance groups 
of statuary are, Jephtha and his daughter, 
Ruth and Naomi, A Wise and a Foolish virgin, 

194 



Hoxne'ward 



and Florizel and Peridta. In the hall above is 
a most affecting painting— "A Parting." A 
calf with feet tied together for shipping is 
being hugged by the little boy who has been 
his playmate. A Reverie by Dicksee, was Chi- 
cago in '93. "When did you see your father 
last?" A flaxen haired lad in blue velvet be- 
ing quizzed by the peaked capped Cromwellians 
while his mother holds her breath fearing the 
innocent child's reply. The most famous paint- 
ing is by Dante Rossetti— of the poet Dante try- 
ing to withhold the angel of death from kissing 
Beatrice. 

This morning Mrs. Lewis and I took a lone* 
street car ride out on Croxteth Road to the 
park. Then we went to buy a bit of English 
china for a souvenir. I thought a cream jug 
appropriate, for we have had the most delicious 
cream since crossing the Channel. I selected 
one made in Staffordshire— a squatty thing with 
bright flowers on it. 

195 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



S. 8. Cedric— August 2, 1907. 
We are just off from Queenstown. That is 
a brief remark, but it means much!— that we are 
homeward bound. After all the interesting 
times we have had day after day, it is good to 
have a home to go to. We shall enjoy it all 
the more, enriched with the memories of Lucerne 
and Katrine, the Alhambra and Windsor Cas- 
tle, the mosque of Cordova and Milan Cathe- 
dral, the narrow streets of Tangiers and the 
handsome Princes Street of Edenburgh. The 
gulls are following us because of the bites 
thrown into the sea. How graceful they are— 
whether soaring in the air or swimming on the 
water (It almost makes one wish to be a real, 
material angel and a material mermaid!) 
Soon even these companions will leave us and 
the sea turned a billions green, and many of us 
enough, if we have that within us to see it. 
And now we have left the lands of poppies— 
(I said that before, when we were in Switzer- 
196 



Homeward 



land and have seen poppies every day since.) 
Now I fear no contradiction. It is a great satis- 
faction to have the last word. 

August 3, 1907. 
It was well I wrote early yesterday— before 
the sea turned a billions green and many of us 
turned the same color. Today is smooth and the 
deck chairs are full. Two flocks of black birds 
have met us and flown east. A sailor tells us 
they sleep upon the water, only returning to 
,the land at nesting time- A mreless message, 
posted on the stairway says Queen Wilhemenia 
assisted at the laying of the corner stone for 
the Carnegie Peace Conference Rail yesterday. 
Also that an outbreak in Tangiers resulted in 
tlie death of one Italian, two Spaniards, and 
four Frenchmen. 

August 8, 1907. 

Ship news has not yet been very startling. 

The passengers are rather reserved, so we have 

added to our acquaintance since sailing only 

197 



Foreign FlasKlig'Kts 



the three passengers that sit at our table. One 
of them, who sat alone at the far end, an old 
Scotch gentleman who is connected with the 
White Star Line, introduced himself to us this 
morning in order to thank Virginia for the 
"many sweet smiles" she had given him during 
the voyage. He went on to tell her she remind- 
ed him of his late queen, Victoria, who always 
had a Avelcoming smile for everyone. When T 
told Leonard of this, he said he overheard a 
croup on the Konig Albert saying Virginia had 
the face of a Madonna— What two tributes 
could be greater! 

We have had a very smooth voyage, except 
for a squall yesterday afternoon. Even that' 
did not seem much of a storm on this great 
steamer. The days pass quickly from the mo- 
ment the maid brings to our beds a pealed 
orange on a fork in the early morning, untH 
Ave return to that same soft couch at night. One 
great time annihilator has been to arrange our 

198 



Home-ward 



five hundred postals in the album. That wa% 
like reviewing the pleasures of the past two 
months without any of the effect of early ris- 
ing, eating omelet and carrots, or recalling that 
old pun about your real estate when each loot 
is an acre. 

There is a great interest in the milage of the 
vessel each day. Especially among groups of 
passengers — both men and women — who havt. 
pooled their money and bought a number. The 
pool goes to the one who buys the number of 
miles the steamer makes in the next twenty- 
four hours. It is an intricate system. They 
form a new pool each day and some men have 
won in a day, six hundred dollars; more than 
four times the year's Avages of our shop's sales- 
man. 



Neiv York— Sunday, August 11, 1907. 
The rush has been on since about four o'clock 
Friday, when to our surprise a sparrow appear- 



199 



Foreign FlasKli^Hts 



eel on the uppermost deck. Where did it coijie 
from 1 When we looked to see, there, far out on 
our right, were very regular outlines of some- 
thing, as if they might be Holland trees, or, as 
Virginia suggested, the basket hooded chaii-s 
of Scheveningen. From then on, the interest 
Avas keen for sights of our native land. The 
ladies donned their showy hats with ear-tick- 
ling feathers and billowy veils- Ships became 
so common that I despaired of keeping count 
after they had numbered thirty. Two of these 
were our battleships Kentucky and Illinois— 
what a rousing cheer we gave them! We are 
floating our own flag now ; for Union Jack came 
down, and the Stars and Stripes went up as 
the American pilot climbed up the ladder on the 
side of the great ship to steer her into harbor. 
And such a harbor! Gibralter, Naples, Glas- 
gow, Liverpool— ah, there is but one America ! 
Naples is beautiful as a dream, the others are 
so, but New York is the waking reality if en- 

200 



Home-ward 



ergy and ability— a galaxy of glittering stars 
as we came in, in the falling twilight. Tho 
Goddess of Liberty welcomes the wanderer like 
a dignified matron, whose home is thrown open 
to those who choose to accept her hospitality. 
And well might she be proud to look about her 
at the floating palaces ablaze with light that 
glide thro' her spacious hall. And of all that 
floats, we were by far the greatest. Our battle- 
ships seemed pygmies as they passed us. But 
size is not always the most to be desired, surely 
it would be impossible to make the narrow canal 
on whose pier we wero to land! Not so! Six 
little tugs came and poked their noses against 
our nose until we laced about; and then the 
six tugs went and poked their noses in the rear, 
until we gently swung along side the dock. So 
gently that not a fibre of wood of the ship or 
of the landing touched as we rounded the cor- 
ner. Nothing seemed so difficult as that land- 
ing, the passengers on the steamer were shout- 

20 1 



Foreign FlasKligKts 



ing to their friends on the dock: "Are all well 
at home?" and vice versa, "How are you?" 
How much that means ! 

Out we poured with our fifteen pieces of bag- 
gage—an hour before, we had gone to the din- 
ing room just long enough to declare to the 
custom officer our name and address, when we 
sailed and to what port, how many pieces of 
baggage we took with us, and how many we 
brought back, and the valuation of the new 
goods. An experienced lady told me it was 
wise to have about eighty dollars' worth. 

We had our baggage labeled "L" because 
there were only three passengers of that initial. 
We thought we were awfully smart, but every- 
one else did the same thing and "L" was a 
terrible jam. At last we had our stuff togeth- 
er and went for an inspector. "You say you 
have one hundred eighty dollars' worth?" I'm 
not a mind reader, so I'll have to look in your 
trunks." "Here's the list, sir." "Well, let's 



203 



Home^ward 



see something. Have you anything in the suit 
case ? " " Yes. There is a muff in there. ' ' "You 
say you have a new trunk- Have you anything 
in the old one." "I have things everywhere. 
The table cloths are on the very bottom. " " Well, 
well! it's too bad to bother you. I'll bring the 
appraiser." And he did. They both looked 
at those five dollar trunks with a sweeping glance 
and glued labels on saying, "Now you're all 
done, but the shouting." The only thing they 
looked at carefully was the Granada picture, 
which was crated. So a carpenter opened it and 
nailed it up again. Of course it was easy to see 
that we have nothing that injures our countries 
industries. 

Two hours finished our task and we were 
driven to the hotel— a hot and tired party. How 
fine it was to have a swim after being limited 
to a bowl all summer! To be sure fifty cents 
would procure a big milk pan for you on the 
other side, but who wants to bathe in such a 
203 



Foreign Flashli&'Kts 



shallow pool? The next indulgence was the 
shampooer, a Frenchman, who urged a facial 
massage. I asked him why, for my face is as 
round as the moon. His answer was : ' ' I would 

take the sun shine out of it Madam,** 

which means tan. 

What a world New York is ! Parisian hats 
and barbers. Swiss chocolates and Brussels, 
Venetian and Spanish laces. Dutch cheeses, 
Italian singers. Irish women sitting on the 
streets with baskets of their crocheting. Shop 
windows and newspapers advertising Scotch 
plaids. And the sermon this morning by the 
eminent London Evangelist, Dr. G. Campell 
Morgan. These were all so before we went 
abroad, but how much more they mean to us 
now! 

Yesterday afternoon Ave took a sight seeing 

motor trip thro' the beautiful part of the city. 

The man with the megaphone (we didn't see 

megaphones in Europe) told us as we passed 

204 



Hoin«-w*rd 



the homes of the millionaires, whether the money 
was accumulated by success in soap, oil, medi- 
cine or patent glove fasteners; or perhaps as in 
the cases of Richard Mansfield and Julia Mar- 
lowe, it was made by playing to man's higher 
nature on the stage. We passed Columia Uni- 
versity, drove along the road which is said to 
be like Rotton Row. But the grass is not so 
green as in England. Then we visited Grant's 
tomb— (so similiar to Napoleon *s), and finally 
came along the Riverside drive to Hotel Astor 
which is home for the time being. 

A night in Chinatown was the other extreme 
from the Riverside and out on Fifth Avenue; 
so disgusting and pitiable ! The Chinamen have 
American wives who have become Chinese at 
least to the extent of using opium. In one 
house, a woman was lying on the bed smokinL' 
her pipe, containing the little round ball of 
opium, (like a big pill), which had been pur- 
pared for her by white men hired for that pur- 
ses 



Foreign FlasKligHts 



pose. We were allowed to walk around the 
room containing their sacred altar, provided 
we kept our garments from touching and pol- 
luting it. Most places of worship have some 
thrill of goodness in them; but this—! The 
bowery dance hall is not unlike any other com- 
mon hall. Three girls were there dancing in 
turn Avith the fifty men, many of them sailors. 
What a shame to give up a whole evening 'to 
something so disagreeable! 

The ]\Ietropolitan Museum restored our pride 
in America's metropolis. Of course, it is not 
the Vatican or the Louvre, but "Rome was not 
built in a dav. " 



Home— August 14, 1907. 
How good it is to be here! The curtains 
waved a welcome when we were 'way down the 
road; and the clocks are all ticking a greeting, 
and fresh flowers in every vase the house af- 
fords, are on the tables and mantel, and the 

206 



Horn* 

'phone ringing every five minutes to say "So 
glad you're home safe!" "We did have one 
narrow escape/' I hear Leonard reply. 
"Where!" I ask in consternation. "If that 
automobile had run into us in Paris!" "But 
it didn't." 




207 



PERSONEL OF OUR PARTY 

Mrs. John Combs, South Orange 
New Jersey. 

Miss Combs and Master Combs 
South Orang:e, New Jersey. 

Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Cook, Wind 
sor, Conn. 

Mr. and Mrs. L. M. Cutting, 
^Jerseyville, 111. 

Mr. and Mrs. D. S. Dalbey, Jer 
seyville, 111. 

Miss Keene, Fort Scott, Kansas 

Mr. Kussner, Chicago, 111. 

Mrs. Ford Lems, Jersej^ville, 111 

Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Le^\ds, Al 
lentown, Penn. 

Miss Wilcox, California. 

PERSONEL OF PARTY JOIN- 
ING US AT NAPLES. 

Mr. and Mrs. Anderson. 
Mr. and Mrs. Andrews, Pitts- 
Mr. and Mi^. Ballard, Maiden, 
Mass. 

308 



Mr. and Mrs. Blake, Phila- 
delphia, Pa. 

Miss Belman, New York City. 

Miss Carpenter, Providence, R. I. 

Miss dishing. Providence, R. I. 

Mrs. Dampman, Reading", Pa. 

Mr. and Mrs. Dickinson, Spring- 
field, Mass. 

Mr. Horn, New York City. 

Miss Lagiino, Ncav York City. 

Mrs. Moffatt, New York City. 

Mr. and Mrs. and Master 'Neil, 
New York City. 

Mrs. Porter and the Misses Por- 
ter, Texas. 

Mrs. Shafer, Reading, Pa. 

Mrs. Shaw and daughter,. Cali- 
fornia. 



